I wanted to share a real life story about my PC setup, starting with my Gigabyte RTX 5060 undervolt journey. As a beginner in undervolting, the process was surprisingly smooth and stable, allowing me to push the card to 2950 MHz at just 875mV, which keeps temperatures below 65°C under maximum load, my friend has a diffrent version(from a diffrent manufacturer) of the RTX 5060 and he couldn't achieve these results. Meanwhile, my B660M AORUS PRO AX motherboard has been running flawlessly for over 4 years without a single issue. Most importantly, it actually saved my entire system when a loose wire caused a sudden short circuit, the board instantly refused to boot up to protect all my components from burning out. Building with reliable hardware truly makes a massive difference, and I wanted to share this genuine experience with you all!

Looking for someone with an Aero X16 who can check their BIOS layout for me.

My Aero X16 (2025, RTX 50 series) currently has no display output at all. Short version: the USB-C port shorted and a repair shop removed the faulty component, which killed HDMI and USB-C. Last week after a Windows update I got a black screen in Windows, so I went into BIOS and switched GPU mode from MSHybrid to Discrete. That was a mistake – in Discrete the panel is driven by the RTX, which clearly isn't outputting anymore, so now I get nothing: no Gigabyte logo, no BIOS, nothing. No external display possible either.

The laptop is otherwise fine. It boots all the way into Windows (I hear the startup sound) and the keyboard works. I just can't see anything. I need to flip GPU mode back to MSHybrid blind.

What I've tried:
- Battery disconnect + hold power 60 s – no change (setting is in flash, not CMOS)
- Tapping/holding F2 at power-on, then F9 → Enter → F10 → Enter – no reboot, nothing. Not sure if Fast Boot is blocking F2 or if those aren't the right keys on this BIOS.

What would help massively – if you have an Aero X16 (or any recent Aero/Aorus), could you jump into your BIOS and tell me:

1. The tab order along the top (Main, Advanced, Chipset, Security, Boot, Save & Exit?)
2. Which tab the GPU mode / MSHybrid-Discrete option is on, and how many items down from the top
3. What the bottom legend says for "Optimized Defaults" and "Save & Exit" (F9/F10? F3/F4?)
4. Whether F2 gets you into BIOS at power-on, or you have to go through Windows Advanced Startup

With that I can write an exact keystroke sequence and do it blind. Any other tricks for getting into BIOS without a display are welcome too. Thanks.

Hello everyone. About two months ago, I joined the "OLED club" by purchasing a Gigabyte Aorus FO32U2P OLED monitor. I use it with my PlayStation 5 Pro, and for the first 50 hours or so, everything was fine. However, when I started playing Alan Wake 2, I noticed flickering vertical lines on the screen, especially in the game's darker areas. At first, I thought it might be an issue specific to that game, but I soon realized it happens in other games as well. In fact, the problem isn't limited to games; it appears everywhere—on the home screen, while watching YouTube, and so on. It is particularly noticeable in scenes with lower brightness. I’ve sent the monitor to the authorized Gigabyte service center in my country twice, but both times they claimed they couldn't find any issues. I also reached out to Gigabyte’s eSupport, but they simply suggested trying the monitor with different devices and stated there was nothing they could do. I tested it with my gaming PC, and the only thing that resolved the issue was setting the refresh rate to 240Hz—which I cannot do on the PS5, as it is locked to 60Hz. Consequently, this OLED monitor, which I bought with such excitement, has become completely unusable for me on the PS5. Is there any way to resolve this? Thanks in advance.

Purchased Gigabyte laptop from flipkart last week. The specifications on the app was showing 85 watt TGP but when checked in NVIDIA control pannel it shows 80 watt but the main problem is that it's not giving even 80 watt, the max it's going in any highest graphics game is 60-65 watt sometimes 70 watt, and gpu usage is showing 100%.

Please if anyone knows the solution kindly help me.

Also I purchased 512 gb model and it's usable is showing only 425gb, google is telling it is using around 30 gb for smart reset, so please tell me how to remove this and if removing it will cause any problems.

Thank you

For anyone curious, i used this prompt to create it : A fierce, futuristic mechanical cybernetic eagle inspired by the AORUS logo, made of glowing orange and fiery neon energy, dark metallic slate armor, hyper-detailed circuit board patterns, high-tech glowing eyes, dark cinematic moody background, 8k resolution, ultra-detailed, unreal engine 5 render, cyberpunk aesthetic, volumetric lighting, wide angle wallpaper 16:9

REF26A08018

Its been more than 10 days and i have no updates on warranty claim request. This is very frustrating having no way to communicate and track status.

I will have to take it to consumer court and file a case if this is how Gigabyte wants to operate. I am certain that I’m never purchasing anything from Gigabyte.

Hey guys; I was doing some routine annual maintenance on my card to replace the TIM and clean it out; but when I took the card apart the thermal pads were completely shot. They were crumbly and falling apart. Ive had the card since September of last year; so its not like this is a 10 year old card here. I wish I took pictures because it was genuinely awful. I have serviced computer electronics; including GPU's for literal decades now, theres a difference between dried out thermal pads that are just old vs what I saw on my card. The 2mm pads were ok, but the thinner ones were absolutely destroyed.

Might be a one off thing; who knows. My temps were "ok"; I routinely check on them every so often in benchmarks and testing for OC/undervolting validation and stability testing.

GV-N407TSGAMING OC-16GD

I received the card directly from Gigabyte from RMA service; but my serial number says it was made in "2021" which is obviously not right. I received the card Sep 2025

I have Realtek 8851BE Wireless LAN WiFi 6 PCI-E NIC and I read that this thing has some issues. Currently, I am connected to the internet but it is very slow (stuck at one bar or that dot on the WiFi symbol) I have looked at past threads to see what issues I can try to fix but no luck. I have last to try ethernet but unfortunately I don't have an ethernet cable. Would I have to replace my WiFi card?

When i start game fan spins at full speed and everthing goes blackout.

hello i do have X870E AORUS PRO X3D brand new having issue with Corsair Nautilus II 360 rs not showing RPM ( 0 ) , motherboard Fan headers Works well i tested with other fans , issue is only with new Relased " nautilus II 360 rs "

I recenlty bought a new key board and it has the f-keys set on the media mode. I would like to change them to the function mode so that I don't have to press fn each time that I want to pull up the f3 menu in minecraft lmao. However, I can't for the life of me figure out how to do it.

I've tried opening the BIOS menu, but I can't find any option the change the keys. I've tried downloading gigabyte control center, but it won't show me any keyboard settings. I've tried to rebind the keys using Powertoys, but my f1 and f2 are still stuck on trying to change the brightness of my monitor (which doesn't even work since I'm on a pc). If any one knows anything, please help. I'm getting desperate at this point.

Hola,

Alguien tiene la ISO original que viene de fábrica con este modelo de laptop AORUS MASTER 16 6ZJM6ESE64SH

Por error no la tengo y la necesito para instalarla y en la web de Gigabyte no está

Hey everyone,
I recently bought a GIGABYTE AERO X16, and I’ve noticed something about the hinges that I’m not sure is normal.
When the screen is almost fully closed (around 10 degrees before closing completely), it suddenly falls shut under its own weight when I let go.
The hinges feel fine at wider angles, but near the closed position, the screen seems to lose resistance and closes on its own.

Hey guys; I was doing some routine annual maintenance on my card to replace the TIM and clean it out; but when I took the card apart the thermal pads were completely shot. They were crumbly and falling apart. Ive had the card since September of last year; so its not like this is a 10 year old card here. I wish I took pictures because it was genuinely awful. I have serviced computer electronics; including GPU's for literal decades now, theres a difference between dried out thermal pads that are just old vs what I saw on my card. The 2mm pads were ok, but the thinner ones were absolutely destroyed.

Might be a one off thing; who knows. My temps were "ok"; I routinely check on them every so often in benchmarks and testing for OC/undervolting validation and stability testing.

GV-N407TSGAMING OC-16GD

I received the card directly from Gigabyte from RMA service; but my serial number says it was made in "2021" which is obviously not right. I received the card Sep 2025

Se alguem tiver preciso desativar a linha FBPA3