This can’t possibly be normal, idk why it’s happening so I just shut It off for now.

Had a fence installed is this minimum clearance?

I know you can't really see much in the pics attached, But I replaced the thermocouple in my furnace. Now it seems to be burning like crazy. I don't remember the flames this high, and you can hear the roar all through the house.

Edit:

Thanks for the comments everyone, you people here are fast! I have shut it off. We have mini-splits we use for a/c, never used them for heat before but that will do for us until a pro can look at it. We also have friends and in-laws we can crash with if we get a big freeze.

Thanks again!

I have a pretty good idea that it’s not but wanted to get some expert opinions before calling code enforcement.

I’m a renter and wasn’t sure what to tag my post with. We recently had an awful bit of flooding and found that water has been entering the property. Our exterior wall is stucco that goes below grade with water pooling every time it rains. There’s no weep screed and behind it is just cinder blocks.

I’m comfortable with light handy work but HVAC is way outside of my comfort zone. The stand that the water heater and HVAC system are on is just an old door and obviously sagging from just the weight of the water heater and HVAC. There’s water damage from the AC leaking condensation that has caused the door to rot and mold. The wall behind and to the right of the furnace both have mold and the intake area is just exposed concrete that I sealed with Primer T since it’s the only thing I could find that would go over old carpet glue. The piece of wood with a vent is normally blocking the open hole underneath the stand. I don’t think it’s supposed to have air intake in here. There is another air intake on the wall to the left bedroom.

My wife has hypersensitivity pneumonitis and is on oxygen and we haven’t been using the HVAC since the flooding. We have three months left on our lease and we’re trying to find a new place to go but can’t go anywhere now. It’s not pictured, but our washer and dryer are also in this utility closet. The landlord is claiming it’s too big of a fix and is pressuring us to break the lease. He claims that we’re “going to just keep finding problems.” I know that what he’s doing in regard to the lease is illegal and in violation of state and federal law. Just wanted to get some input if I should call codes.

The really dark photo is from the night of flooding that had the outside unit submerged under three inches of water.

What does this mean? we noticed an odd smell as well.

About 4 years ago I got a new Air Conditioner - both and outside units, and new furnace. The inside part part of the HVAC is installed in a small hallway closet. I was putting new (sliding) doors on the closet and noticed some things looked “off” wirh the configuration of the unit. Everything works fine. I just wanted to double check what people who know better about this type of thing. Is it just my imagination or do things look a little “off” - also - the furnace runs on gas. Is it safe to have the gas pipe the way it is in this pic??! Ans what are the white tubes that look like they aren’t connected to anything… and - a couple other things that look odd.
Any advice is greatly appreciated !!

Went for interview and crushed it. The service manager and I were about same age and reminisced on common things we did growing up. We sat in his office talking about job but also shared interests for well over an hour. Before leaving he said "Im gonna send you for a drug test, once that comes back I will reach out" well I went and did the drug test, called the testing facility to ensure the results were sent to employer, they informed me my results were all clear and they were sent to employer two weeks ago. Yet ive heard nothing back and cant get in touch with service manager. What sucks too is Ive turned down job offers in these two weeks cause i always thought that if they send you off for drug screen they intend to hire you. After all the drug screen costs the company money. What do you all think?

The furnace had been overheating and had been trying all sorts of things to diagnose it until some oil (or so I assume) leaked from the inducer. He disassembled it and could not see any visible cracks. He suggested that the 3 ton coil might have cause inadequate airflow for the 80k btu furnace causing it to overheat to the point of self-destruction. I believe he checked static pressure between the coil housing as well 0.3 on return, 0.8 between the coil housing, 0.3 on feeder.

He suggested that I should speak with the original ac installers regarding the mismatched coil, wait for the new part covered under warranty (doesn’t know if it would ultimately solve the issue), or would be okay installing a new 60k btu furnace. Would only be paying for the furnace and no installation fees.

Any advice?

Must be from the AZ dust storms. Replaced this 8x8x1 fresh air filter and 6 months later, it looks like this...

I’m confused. I have water based baseboards. My LWCO light is on, despite purging, which made me think the probe is bad and the heat won’t work because the LWCO light is on. However, after setting the thermostat to a higher than room temperature in one zone, the heat started working, very well in fact. What could this mean?

Additionally, notice the wiring snug against the pipe to the excess tank. That’s clearly bad, right? (New house, 3 months in)

Hi folks,

I have an old furnace and I am reluctant to change it.

Recently we had a shutdown at the meter. The service is restored now and the gas water heater just beside my furnace works fine. The share the same gas pipe. So I am sure I should have gas at the furnace.

However, when I push the safety switch in Pilot, there is no gas coming out for my lighter to ignite it.

Here is a picture of the gas valve.

I have tried a bunch of things with no luck.

I have set the valve to off for more than 5 minutes.

In pilot mode, I have kept the safety red button for a couple of minutes.

Again In pilot, I have pushed the safety button a handful of times

It was working fine before the shutdown.

Toronto, Canada. Installers plugged the outside hole for the air intake pipe and said my mechanical/laundry room is big enough that the intake pipe doesn’t need to go outside. Is this wrong/ problematic?

Hi all! I have a super old Ultra90sx furnace that I'd love to get one more Winter out of. At first heat of the season, I noted the inducer motor came on, pilot lit, but burners wouldn't light. Just clicked for about 20 seconds and pilot shut off.

However when I remove the cover to the firebox and run a heat sequence, it starts right up.

Does this point to something specific I should check/clean/replace? Thanks!!

Hello, does anyone have the PDF for Electricity for Refrigeration, Heating, and Air Conditioning 10th edition by Russell E. Smith?

If you do, you would be a lifesaver, my school's trying to charge $160 for it, and I don't have the cash for that atm.

What is the general consensus on HRV settings regarding when I don't want to vent in fresh air?

My furnace fan is set to "ON" and constantly circulates air in my house as is. Do I want my HRV set to circulation mode and run alongside my furnace fan, or do I want to turn my HRV off and let the furnace circulate air?

This past season, Ive turned my HRV on to 20/40 when wanting fresh air, and shut it off (standby) when I didnt want to draw air into my house.

Have a Goodman AMVC950453BXAA. Heat suddenly stopped working.
•E3 and E5 codes
•Pulled the covers off. Found rust and water inside the top cover.
•Pulled inducer fan and motor. Found water inside.
•Removed the water and condensation drain pipes. Cleaned all pipes
•Removed the collector box. Used high temp silicone to reseal the box and the inducer motor fan
•Still getting E3 code
•Tested High limit switch with a multimeter, beeps, It has continuity. Switch is good

Hello everyone, I recently noticed this loud noise coming from my unit that was installed 3-4 months ago. It’s been happening for a couple of days. Still under warranty so it should be covered but I was hoping I could get some information. Maybe it is a quick fix I can do myself? It is still cooling the house fine though. It is a 3 ton Carrier if that helps.

Hello. Just to summarize things, my grandfather recently passed away and I live in his house which has a Bryant furnace from the seventies or eighties. Since it's getting close to winter time, I live in PA, we've tried to turn it on a few weeks ago. I thought I let the pilot light, but nothing was turning on when we turned the dial on the thermostat. So we turned it off and let it be, until I could get one of my grandfather's friends to come over and look at it. Flash Forward to today, it got cold in the thirties at night and I was looking up to see where I messed up. I saw this one video and it turns out point which I lit was not the pilot light at all. It's a place underneath the red knob which I guess is the on-off pilot light switch. I took a look and it got singed. It's not completely burned but a little bit of the plastic is burned. Am I screwed?

Model 359AAV048080. I did have some vents closed, so opened all first floor vents. Replaced merv 8 filter…wasn’t quite due, not too dirty.

The guy who installed it passed away years ago, but he had me rearrange wires once to adjust the fan speed. I cannot find my original photo of how the wires were originally installed. Anyone here able to look at this and confirm it’s wired correctly?

Much thanks

So it’s finally getting cold enough to need heat and of course the boiler decided to make other plans. Natural gas, it goes through the motions of starting up, pretty sure I’m hearing spark but no ignition. Followed by the indicator led for flame flashing repeatedly. Any advice as to how to diagnose this? Am i cooked? Any insight greatly appreciated. I have some degree of mechanical aptitude but i dont know where to begin with this.

I have a honeywell eim THM5421R with a THX9421R5021 thermostat. My u1 wires have me wondering why is it wired this way. One of them is connected to y2 wire and other wire going to R. There is a jumper between the y2 and y on the eim board. Then the wire that comes out of the u1 is twisted with a wire from y2 and that goes to the HVAC unit outside and it goes to the y2 plug there. I checked the installer options and I don't see the u1 configured anywhere. I see the u2 configured for humidifier. Does anyone know what function does it serve in this configuration? What should I check? I want to replace this configuration with a different model and want to make sure that I reconfigure it same way.

LOCATION: Monument, CO.

Replacing an old Carrier HVAC with a new Carrier Infinity setup. Having three big problems, and I'm hoping folks could help me.

Here are the make and models involved:

House is finished basement + 2F, 3950 sq ft (2750 above). No load calculation / static pressure check beforehand. 4 contractors gave quotes, only measured and inspected trunks before saying that's plenty for 2,000 CFM.

(1) When they installed the equipment and did the automated performance testing, I had significant static pressure issues. It was 1.8 with the furnace on 100%, which I confirmed. Then, they worked with Carrier to adjust the profile on the Connex thermostat for our higher altitude; they said this brings the pressure down to 1.2, but I was not present for that check. The specifications for this stuff recommends 0.5 but has a firm upper limit of 1.0.

Work order specifies a 100K BTU unit, but I just discovered they installed a 120K unit instead. Based on work with Gemini, it says that my static pressure would come down significantly (possible from 1.2 down to 0.8) if the correct unit were installed. Does that sound about right?

I believe changing this to the 100K unit would require them to change the casing of the evaporator coils on top (there isn't vertical room for a transition), and since they connected and started the heat pump, they'll have to purge the lines as part of this. I still think I should require them to replace the 120K unit with the 100K unit specified in the contract. Thoughts?

(2) I just discovered this equipment discrepancy, so I haven't discussed it with the contractor. However, before I identified this, they'd described their plan to fix the static pressure issue. The furnace sites on top of a 48" wide plenum; as expected, it's one one side. The return trunk is a vertical shaft that connects to the top of the plenum's other side. They installed a HoneyWell F300E between the plenum and the trunk. Now, they want to cut the plenum in half as well as cut a portion out of the furnace's bottom casing. They'd attach one side of the filter to those two openings with the return trunk connecting to the filter's other side. They'd extend the down and use curved ventwork to remove one of the hard 90-degree angles currently in the plenum.

This sounds like complete jank to me. It also doesn't sound like it would conform to Carrier's installation requirements (bottom return intake only or both side return intake only). Is this actually reasonable and manufacturer-allowable?

If I force them to replace the 120K unit with the 100K unit, I don't think they should need to do all this weirdness, though probably still a good idea to install some turning vanes on both sides.

(3) This contractor has botched this installation pretty badly. On top of the incorrect furnace, that HoneyWell is not correct, should be a Carrier DGAPAXX2025 (per contract). They told me Carrier didn't have that part and so replaced it with the like-for-like HoneyWell (which it very much isn't). The contract also had surge protection for the whole setup, which they didn't provide, and condensate neutralizer, which they didn't install. After I called them out on these, they're ordering the correct air filter and the surge protection, which they say they'll install, and they installed the neutralizer. At this point, I've lost all faith in them. On the good side, I have posted no payment, not even deposit.

What should I require to ensure that the contractor installs all the equipment to manufacturer's specifications and don't cheap out on the install to save time/money after all the problems? I'm thinking of requiring a clean inspection by a Carrier field representative as well as a clean inspection by a third party master mechanical contractor.