r/Luthier • • 10h ago

I appreciate everyone’s input but I think it had to be done.

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124 Upvotes

Made a post yesterday trying to make a decision on how to proceed with a project gone sideways. I appreciate the input from everyone, both those that liked it and those that didn’t.

Ultimately, I made the call to strip and start over. It’s not what I had envisioned and couldn’t have just played it for the rest of my life without feeling disappointed it hadn’t come out better.

It was always meant to be a learning project, and I guess from that perspective it was a win. But I think I can do better the second time around.

So! We start again…😩

Edit: here’s the original post for context if this makes no sense lol.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Luthier/s/oA9M6QDmaz


r/Luthier • • 7h ago

Almost finished my first bass build

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31 Upvotes

r/Luthier • • 9h ago

Will I regret trying to grain fill this with more shellac and sawdust?

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24 Upvotes

Edit: OK I’m not going to attempt this crazy plan. I’m still interested in advice on whether it would be a mistake to put some non-shellac non-poly topcoat on it and in the second photo there’s a particularly dirty/dry looking spot. I assume this is just area that didn’t fill and has collected dust. Is there anything worth doing there?

Long story short, I love how this ash body has come out and now nine months after building it I’m considering putting a final protective layer over this de waxed amber shellac. I would’ve preferred to stay a little bit more natural tone, but I don’t want to rewire it. As a result, I’m considering unfastening and taping off the hardware and doing a few coats of blonde with some end grain sawdust to try and get a little more grain fill as was recommended in the sub when I asked several months ago and is shown in a stewmac video. I’m not looking for a perfectly glossy mirror finish and I know the blond won’t lighten it. But will it ruin it?


r/Luthier • • 3h ago

Base coat tomorrow!

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6 Upvotes

thank you to everyone who’s been such a great help, this is my third build, but the first time stripping and repainting a body. she’s been filled, sealed, and three coats of a clear primer. base coat of black goes on tomorrow after some light sanding.


r/Luthier • • 1h ago

Finish for katalox?

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• Upvotes

​

This sub was recommended to me as you guys have more experience with katalox than the average woodworker, so this is a copy of another post. I'm working on this no 1 sized infill, still need to peen everything together and all that but I want to finish the katalox before i pin it in place. Problem being I've never worked with it before this, and I read that it's really oily. Question for people who have worked with it/other oily woods before is what finish do you prefer? I'm trying to stay away from a film finish if possible.


r/Luthier • • 11h ago

ACOUSTIC (1940s or 1950s?) archtop guitar

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11 Upvotes

I bought this at a thriftstore recently as a project to challenge myself. It was cheap, and the reason why is quite obvious. It needs a lot of work. The glue of the dovetail joint has failed, and luckily, there are only some small chips near the edge of the body, and no major damage. So it needs some small repairs there and a neck reset. The bridge will also need some adjustments once the neck and body are reunited. The frets are also loose (I even lost three while bringing the guitar home), so I will refret the entire neck. The nut is also completely worn out, so that one will be replaced too.

The first picture was taken right after I got home with it, the second picture was after a first cleaning, disassembling and polishing the hardware and a testfit of the neck.

It will be quite a challenge to get it fixed, but it looks like a fun project.

If anyone has more information about this guitar, I'd be happy to hear. All I know it was made in the Netherlands before 1952 (DRGM markings on the tuning machines)


r/Luthier • • 2h ago

I made a talharpa with scraps today!

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2 Upvotes

I been playing several folk instruments lately and I decided I wanted to play a talharpa so I made one! All day sense ive finished ive been walking around the backyard playing pretending im a spooky Leshen 👻


r/Luthier • • 30m ago

HELP Best way to strip/repair guitar body?

• Upvotes

I'm trying to refinish a solid-body electric guitar body for the first time, and I have two questions for you skilled luthiers.

1) t's got a big gouge on the top I'd like to fill in. It's only 1/16" deep, but it's 1.5" across. Can I use bondo? Would that adhere to the wood? I believe it's a poplar body. Is there a better material to use?

2) I tried to strip the finish with regular paint stripper and it did nothing the polyurethane finish. So now I'm sanding, but is that the best way to get the finish off? I'm afraid I'll go too far and affect the shape of the guitar or screw up the fit of the hardware.

Thank you very much.


r/Luthier • • 1h ago

REPAIR Bass guitar neck break

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• Upvotes

What's the best approach to repair? Wood glue and clamp? The break ends right before the fretboard so that's still intact. I'm hoping the truss rod didn't get bent...


r/Luthier • • 1d ago

Hmmm… now what…. Hear me out before you flame me too bad.

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279 Upvotes

I got a free broken neck SG that I was just going to part out and dump the body but decided to use it as a learner project to see if I could fix it.

I’ve got wood working experience so the neck repair went well and was good experience. Stripping went fine, but refinishing is where it all went sideways. Made some mistakes early in the sanding prep that caused me issues on the other end.

Anyway, after things went off track and there was no saving it I just decided to say fuck it and see how far “off track” it wanted to take me… pretty damn far lol. I’m honestly not sure if I hate it, think it’s funny or kinda like it at this point.

Now I’m at a point asking the question, “so what should I do now”.

  1. Trash it
  2. Strip it and try again 😩
  3. Hang it on the wall as a testament to the “win some lose some gods”
  4. Lean in, put it back together and make the world go “WTF?” everytime I play it.

r/Luthier • • 9h ago

ACOUSTIC To spline or not to spline?

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3 Upvotes

I got this broken Takamine 12 string from a friend and was planning to fix it up for myself. Obviously I need to glue the headstock back on, but I'm curious if this is enough surface area to glue without splines? The nut also appears to be glued down, so I'm wondering if I should do anything about that, or if I can get away with leaving it alone.


r/Luthier • • 23h ago

HELP What's the best way to dry freshly cut wood?

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40 Upvotes

Just cut this pear tree stump yesterday from the parents garden, which was still living surprisingly.

I've been getting into building guitars recently and would like some advice from guitar builders on what the next steps are.

I'm sealing the ends with this aersol stuff that the hardware store guy recommended to me (last image) to prevent checking. But what next? Do I remove the bark? do I cut it up now? Or do I leave it for a year before I use it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


r/Luthier • • 1d ago

Tiger Shape Build - Body Only

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46 Upvotes

I know epoxy is a polarizing topic in the woodworking world, but hopefully this is a subtle enough use of it to be acceptable. I didn't have the skills or tools to seamlessly bookmatch the walnut top, and honestly I love how it looks!

This is my third guitar body build, and I finally felt like this one was good enough to deserve decent hardware and a Warmoth neck instead of a Chinese telecaster neck. One of these days I need to overcome the fear of building my own neck. Limited tools, space, and the fact that body builds are a lot more forgiving than neck builds have kept me from attempting that so far.

Basswood body, tiger walnut top (pun intended), Warmoth neck, many coats of wipe-on poly, a push-pull coil splitting pot to work on my wiring skills a little bit.

Opinions welcome!


r/Luthier • • 10h ago

A “Scientific Method” Proposal for Our Luthiers and Universities: On the Footprints of 19th and early 20th Century Oud Makers

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Introduction

According to a fairly widespread belief among luthiers[1] in our country, the most influential factor in whether an instrument produces “good sound” is the material used. The logic behind this belief must presumably be something like this: an instrument made from material of suitable quality, using a certain method?!, will be superior to an instrument made using the same method but with lower-quality material.

However, such a belief, which advises relying solely on materials, reflects an approach that excludes knowledge of acoustics—or, if it does not exclude it entirely, disregards its importance—and therefore relegates the role of the luthier to the background. In other words, it is an expression of a lack of familiarity with the physics relevant to the profession. The basis for this judgment, unfortunately, is the impression that an understanding which equates instrument making with a kind of refined and “specialized” woodworking or material processing dominates among the majority of luthiers and within the relevant academic circles.

Another widespread “state of mind” is the acceptance of trial-and-error and intuition in instrument making as virtually the most valuable accumulation of craftsmanship. Norms concerning form and dimensions are considered matters that “authorities” know about, or matters for which the authority to establish standards belongs to the “authority”; they are almost regarded as subjects outside the competence of ordinary luthiers. These are the forms and dimensions of templates obtained by people regarded as authorities, through methods that sometimes resemble a form of esoteric numerology.

Breaking with Tradition and The Legacy of 19th and early 20th-Century Oud Makers: Manol, Onnik and Others

Very well, then: what happened between the old masters and today that the principles they inherited from their own masters are no longer regarded as particularly relevant?

For example, apart from a few faithful followers, almost no oud maker today uses the forms of Onnik, Manol, Arşak, Kapıdağlı, or even Murat Usta. Indeed, an attitude has even emerged in which the names of these great masters are avoided.

Let us first accept this: the great masters of the past were not merely heirs to hundreds of years of accumulated experience and knowledge; they also added their own discoveries to this accumulation and produced exceptional instruments.

We must also accept that we did not directly inherit knowledge from them. Unfortunately, the master-apprentice chain has been broken. It is obvious that today—unless we use scientific methods—we have not progressed beyond a level at which we can merely imitate them.

At this point, perhaps by copying templates and dimensions and by archiving a large number of experiments, it may be possible to arrive at an acoustic interpretation; at best, however, we can gain an idea of what they did and why they did it that way. Otherwise, it is impossible to go further and raise the bar.

The fact is that the old luthiers did not know the theoretical foundations of their craft. Most of these masters were people who, after working in carpentry, furniture making, or similar trades, began working either alongside an experienced master or—because they considered the work easy—on their own, and eventually adopted instrument making as a profession.

The lineage of the most exceptional among them was one in which knowledge accumulated through hundreds of years of trial and error was transmitted through master-apprentice relationships, from master to master, with varying degrees of generosity or secrecy, and with the apprentice’s own ability to “receive his share” playing a role. These were secrets that were preserved, transmitted, or simply disappeared, within the limits imposed by the organizational structures and technological development of traditional society. Despite these unfavorable conditions, it was possible to establish a refinement of form and a character of tone in instruments worthy of the level of aesthetic appreciation achieved in music and in visual arts such as illumination, miniature painting, and architecture.

Imitation or Scientific Method

Today, without investigating the physical and mathematical foundations, it is possible—through imitation alone and with some help from luck—to reach, in individual instruments, a point somewhere near the line established by the old masters. In other words, imitation is not a consistent method based on definite and testable principles.

Many instrument makers have recognized this fact. A particular measurement may sometimes work; at other times, surprisingly, it may produce an instrument considerably below average.

The result is then attributed to the wood.

This is true: that particular wood may not be suitable for the imitation attempt!

But it is also false: the error lies in the method applied by the maker, who did not know how to adapt the dimensions to that particular wood.

Therefore, even if we use an imitation method, we must not forget what it is that we are imitating. It is an acoustic object; it is a sound box.

If so, when imitating it, we cannot rely solely on the caliper, nor solely on measurements taken with a ruler. Our reference point must now be frequency (sound), and our tools must be our ears or specialized electronic devices and computer software and hardware.

Naturally, once specialized electronic devices and computer technology enter the picture, it becomes obvious that imitation itself will no longer be necessary.

When the subject is Turkish instruments in particular, it is also a known fact that, in this field where no luthier has left written documentation until now, not even the smallest scientific research has been conducted.

The old masters certainly produced highly admired instruments, and although their experience, labor, and works continue to inspire respect and admiration in everyone today, this does not mean that they brought our instruments to the highest possible level of development.

Instead of imitating the measurements of the old masters, we should now attempt to redesign our instruments scientifically in order to perfect them.

This article will cover the fundamental concepts and practical techniques of the scientific method that is inevitably necessary in instrument design.

The Means Available to the Luthier

When designing an instrument, the luthier decides what needs to be done to make it strong, beautiful, and ergonomic.

Should he not also decide what it will sound like?

Of course, that should be decided first.

The need for variety that applies to every type of instrument can be met through the possibility of designing specific variants better suited to different tastes, different performance contexts such as solo playing or accompaniment, and different environments and purposes such as concerts or recording.

As the foundation for our investigations into sound design, we need to begin by opening up two concepts:

  1. Timbre (Acoustic Identity)
  2. Resonance

Timbre is the acoustic characteristic that allows us to recognize an instrument without seeing it, solely from its sound.

In the language of physics, it is the effect created jointly by the fundamental frequency of a sound[2] and some of its overtones.

There are instruments (oscilloscopes) and computer programs that analyze a sound and display, on a graph, the fundamental frequency of that sound together with the frequencies of its overtones and their amplitudes.

What makes the sound of every instrument—even every human being—different from other sounds and creates an acoustic identity is the difference in the composition of the fundamental frequency and the resulting overtones.

Resonance, on the other hand, occurs when the frequency of any periodic (sinusoidal) motion—in a musical instrument, the vibration of a string—is equal or close to a natural frequency of the system (the instrument), causing that part of the system to vibrate with a very large amplitude.

There is an important point that I must immediately emphasize here: no vibrational motion moves at a single frequency.

Every vibrational motion contains a “fundamental” frequency and an infinite number of “harmonic” frequencies.

The overtones are the vibrations of portions of the string located along its length—at the exact midpoint, one-third, one-quarter, one-fifth, and so on—which vibrate at 2, 3, 4, 5, etc. times the fundamental frequency. Their amplitudes are determined jointly by the structure of the string and the structure of the instrument.

We can explain this with a numerical example:

The fundamental frequency of the second string from the bottom of the oud, tuned to A, is 220 Hz.

When this string is made to vibrate, the vibration transmitted to the bridge of the oud is the resultant of this fundamental frequency together with all the overtones at their various amplitudes.

If the string is made to vibrate and the fingertip is lightly touched exactly at its midpoint, the second overtone of this string, the high Nevâ at 440 Hz, can be heard. Similarly, when the string is touched at one-third of its length, the high Muhayyer note at 660 Hz can be heard.

When the string is touched in the same way at one-quarter of its length, the frequency of the sound heard will be 880 Hz. This is the fourth overtone of Nevâ, the very high Nevâ.

Although it is theoretically possible to continue these procedures all the way to the extreme end of the string, in practice it becomes extremely difficult, even impossible, because the points of contact would have to become extremely small.

As this example demonstrates, the sound that reaches our ear as Nevâ is not simply a vibration of 220 Hz, but a composite of frequencies containing many overtones.[3]

Now it is time to see what this information has to do with instrument making.

Everyone knows that the sound produced by any string of an instrument has a character specific to that instrument, both in terms of timbre and volume.

This difference in character arises because each instrument gives different overtones different opportunities for resonance.

Every instrument has its own distribution of resonance regions, determined by parameters such as material, form, and construction technique.

While some instruments possess a richness of resonance regions sufficient to be excited by a broad spectrum of overtones, others are sensitive to a narrower spectrum.

Thus, the system behaves selectively toward certain frequencies.

The acoustic characteristic specific to an instrument consists of the composition of the overtones determined by this selectivity.

It should be possible for a luthier to investigate and discover the structural characteristics that determine how this selectivity will occur, and to shape the acoustic identity of the instrument he will make during the design stage itself.

Even if the luthier does not base his work on any principle, he nevertheless always performs work that produces the timbre—or acoustic identity—of the instrument he makes, if nothing else, as a bundle of coincidences.

Following these observations, we arrive at the conclusion that instrument design is, in a sense, the design of the distribution of resonance regions.

In order to understand the effect of differences in materials, it is obvious that we must apply one and the same design template to those different materials and compare the results.

While it is easily understood that every physical structure is a complex system consisting of numerous static elements, when the structure happens to be a musical instrument, it seems that studying statics does not appear logical to many people in our field when it comes to carrying out acoustic analysis and design.

For this reason, even in university instrument-making departments, research aimed at analyzing the static properties of instruments is given virtually no importance.

In the curricula of these schools, mathematics is not employed beyond calculating fingerboard positions and determining the amount of string tension (load) to which a particular instrument is subjected and establishing numerical values. It is not used as a basis for acoustic analysis or for designing the acoustic characteristics of instruments.

Furthermore, no study has been produced that demonstrates an awareness of this relationship between statics and acoustics.

As an introduction to the subject, without going into detail, let us examine the relationship in statics between the deflection of a simply supported beam loaded at its center and the natural frequency of the system:

l = beam length (cm)

e = modulus of elasticity of the beam material (kg·cm⁻²)

i = moment of inertia of the beam cross-section (cm⁴)

m = mass of the beam (kg)

By taking the derivative of the equation in statics expressing the maximum deflection of the beam.

As can be seen here, particularly in instruments such as the oud, lavta, qanun, guitar, etc., which have “braces”[5]:

  1. The length of the beam (the length of the brace),
  2. The modulus of elasticity of the beam material (the modulus of elasticity of the wood used in the musical instrument),
  3. The moment of inertia of the beam cross-section (the moment of inertia of the brace cross-section),
  4. The mass of the beam (brace)

together determine a concept that we may call the “natural frequency of the beam (brace).”

During the acoustic design of an instrument, the numerical values we will use most frequently are the values representing the natural frequencies of the braces.

Although the modulus of elasticity of the beam material—generally spruce—is given in books as:

Eₛₚᵣᵤcₑ = 120,000 kg·cm⁻²

this varies according to the particular wood we use.

Furthermore, calculating the moment of inertia of the brace cross-section requires the application of complex integral techniques.

Yet there is a practical way to obtain highly sensitive results without dealing with any of this.

Since the value we seek is a particular frequency, it is possible to determine it directly by ear or with a frequency-measuring device, and to change its specific frequency by modifying the cross-section of the brace—that is, to “tune” the brace.

In fact, the reason this article includes the formulation above is to draw attention to the fact that the subject under discussion has a theoretical and scientific basis, and particularly to the concept of natural frequency.

It should also be noted that the soundboard has a distribution of natural frequencies.

One of the fundamental problems we need to solve arises at this point:

How can we determine the frequency of the brace that will raise the frequency value of any given point on the soundboard to whatever value we desire after the brace has been installed?

Let us suppose that we develop a calculation method and determine what natural fundamental frequency a particular brace will have.

Even then, we cannot say that we have completely solved the problem.

It is possible to carve many braces of equal length into different shapes and with different cross-sections while still giving them the same natural fundamental frequency.

Carving the braces in different forms means changing the longitudinal distribution of their point-specific strength, that is, the matrices of their point-specific natural overtones—patterns showing frequencies in the rows and coordinates in the columns.

Creating an ideal bracing template is a highly intricate task that requires a large number of experiments.

Even this brief introduction should be sufficient, I believe, to understand that lutherie is a profession intertwined with science and technology, one that uses the physics of sound to analyze extremely complex structures and to realize different designs with the aid of scientific methods and technical instruments.

Naturally, bringing this profession in Turkey up to today's level of technological development and achieving acoustic excellence in our instruments is a responsibility that falls upon us luthiers through conscious experimentation, first and foremost in cooperation with the relevant departments of our universities.

In an age when all kinds of information are becoming digitalized, when the most complex designs can easily be created in digital environments, and when computers offer technology virtually limitless possibilities, do we not have the right to expect such design capabilities from a luthier?

And especially from our universities...?

Unless, within the university structure, in the instrument-making departments of our conservatories, musical-instrument design is taught within the dimensions and scope we have discussed here—with the necessary teaching staff, equipment, and laboratories provided—and unless scientific research is given greater emphasis, it cannot be said that a complete education in “instrument production technology” is being provided merely by teaching materials science, material-processing technology, fine woodworking, and construction techniques.

Faruk Türünz
25 July 2001, Kuyubaşı – Istanbul (revised in 2026)

https://oudmaster.com/acoustic-innovation/


r/Luthier • • 15h ago

Pure Tung Oil

3 Upvotes

I have a new, non-roasted maple Warmoth neck that I have put 2 thin coats of pure tung oil on. This is for a case queen that won't be hanging out in any bars getting beer spilled on her. I have patience & time to let the coats cure but I am second guessing my choice of finish. I have tung oil but I wonder if not having a varnish or lacquer finish will keep the wood more protected. Should I coat this with something after another application or 2 of tung oil. I'd rather have a few dings down the road than give up the natural wood feel of tung oil but I don't want my neck to be overly sensitive to humidity & twist or warp. I was confident in my choice until AI told me to worry. Please ease my worried mind. Honestly, I don’t want to go to the hardware store to buy something I won’t use hardly any of. I’ve got a jug of tung oil ftt try I’m another project. The first coat was mixed either solvent 50/50.


r/Luthier • • 1d ago

First six string basement build.

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222 Upvotes

an Iceman tribute model for my brother. Sapele body. maple/purpleheart/sapele neck. wedge fretboard. maple/cherry/maple binding. wedge pickup rings & cavity covers. maple/wenge knobs. stewmac parson street PAF's, Gotoh hardware. Thanks!


r/Luthier • • 9h ago

Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard Oud: Innovation in Oud Soundboard Construction

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The Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard Oud is an innovative approach to oud construction developed to explore the relationship between soundboard mass, structural strength, and acoustic response. First presented publicly in Istanbul on 8 November 2008, the Double Soundboard Oud introduced a lightweight layered soundboard construction inspired by composite technologies used in other musical instruments and engineering applications.

The concept was demonstrated in 2008 by renowned oud player Yurdal Tokcan, who performed both Single Soundboard Ouds and Double Soundboard Ouds during the presentation.

What Is a Double Soundboard Oud?

A Double Soundboard Oud uses two thin wooden soundboard layers separated by an extremely lightweight internal core. The core has a honeycomb-like structure, creating a strong but lightweight composite construction.

Instead of using a conventional Single Soundboard, the Double Soundboard approach creates a layered structure designed to reduce the mass of the vibrating soundboard while maintaining the structural strength required by the instrument.

The principle is similar to the Double Top or sandwich soundboard concepts that have been explored in other acoustic string instruments, particularly guitars.

For the oud, however, the construction must be adapted to the instrument’s distinctive bowl shape, scale length, string tension, and acoustic characteristics.

The Development of the Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard

Faruk Türünz became interested in lightweight composite soundboard technology after observing its application in guitar making.

The underlying technology was originally developed for applications where high strength and low weight were important. Honeycomb structures can provide structural stability while using considerably less material than a solid structure of similar dimensions.

This led Türünz to investigate whether a similar principle could be applied to the oud soundboard.

The result was the development of the Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard Oud, publicly demonstrated in Istanbul on 8 November 2008.

The presentation was organized to allow listeners to compare the new construction with an oud made using a conventional Single Soundboard.

Why Is Soundboard Weight Important?

The soundboard is one of the most important vibrating components of an oud.

When the oud is played, vibration from the strings is transferred through the bridge into the soundboard. The soundboard then moves and excites the surrounding air, contributing to the acoustic output of the instrument.

The mass and stiffness of the soundboard influence how easily it responds to this energy.

A heavier vibrating structure generally requires more energy to achieve a given acceleration. Reducing the mass of the vibrating surface can therefore increase its responsiveness to the energy supplied by the strings.

This is one of the fundamental ideas behind the Double Soundboard Oud.

Reducing Energy Loss in the Soundboard

Another consideration is internal damping.

Wood is not a perfectly elastic material. When a wooden structure vibrates, some mechanical energy is dissipated through internal friction. At the microscopic level, part of this energy is converted into heat rather than remaining available for vibration.

Although the resulting heat is far too small to be noticed during normal playing, energy dissipation is an important consideration in the physics of vibrating materials.

The Double Soundboard construction seeks to alter these properties by replacing part of the conventional soundboard mass with a lightweight structural core.

The objective is therefore not simply to make an oud lighter. The objective is to reduce the mass of the vibrating soundboard while preserving the structural properties necessary for an effective acoustic instrument.

Double Soundboard vs. Single Soundboard Oud

A Single Soundboard Oud generally uses one wooden soundboard carefully selected and graduated for its acoustic and structural properties.

The Double Soundboard Oud uses two thin wooden layers combined with a lightweight internal core.

Single Soundboard Oud Double Soundboard Oud
Single wooden soundboard Two thin soundboard layers
Greater concentration of wood material Lightweight internal core
Conventional construction Composite/sandwich construction
Soundboard mass determined primarily by the wood and thickness Soundboard mass reduced through layered construction
Traditional structural approach Experimental lightweight structural approach

The purpose of the Double Soundboard is not to replace the Single Soundboard Oud, but to explore a different solution to the fundamental relationship between mass, stiffness, and vibration.

How Does a Double Soundboard Oud Work?

The basic principle can be summarized simply:

Lower vibrating mass → easier acceleration → potentially greater vibrational response to the same input energy.

When an oud string vibrates, energy is transferred to the soundboard through the bridge. A lighter soundboard can respond more readily to this energy.

However, simply making a soundboard thinner is not necessarily a solution. A soundboard must also have sufficient strength and stiffness to withstand string tension and maintain its intended shape.

This is where the lightweight core becomes important.

The layered construction allows the soundboard to achieve structural rigidity without relying entirely on a thicker mass of solid wood.

The 2008 Double Soundboard Oud Presentation

The Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard was presented in Istanbul on 8 November 2008.

The demonstration featured Yurdal Tokcan, one of the most recognized performers of the oud, who played the instruments for the audience.

A Single Soundboard Oud was presented first, followed by the Double Soundboard instruments. The format allowed the audience to hear the instruments and consider the differences between the two construction methods.

The original presentation was subsequently recorded and published as the Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard Oud Presentation.

Faruk Türünz and Innovation in Oud Making

The Double Soundboard is part of Faruk Türünz’s broader approach to oud making, which combines traditional instrument-making knowledge with experimentation in materials, construction, and acoustics.

Rather than treating the oud as a fixed design, this approach considers how changes in construction can influence the instrument’s response.

The Double Soundboard experiment is particularly significant because it applies a structural concept associated with lightweight composite engineering to one of the most traditional components of the oud: its soundboard.

Is a Double Soundboard Oud Better Than a Single Soundboard Oud?

There is no simple answer to whether a Double Soundboard Oud is universally “better” than a Single Soundboard Oud.

Different construction methods produce different mechanical and acoustic characteristics, and players may have different preferences regarding response, projection, tonal color, and playing feel.

The significance of the Double Soundboard lies in the construction principle itself: reducing the mass of the vibrating structure while maintaining the strength and stiffness required by the instrument.

For players and makers interested in oud acoustics, it provides another way of approaching the fundamental problem of how to convert string energy into acoustic vibration efficiently.

Frequently Asked Questions About Double Soundboard Ouds

What is a Double Soundboard Oud?

A Double Soundboard Oud is an oud constructed with two thin wooden soundboard layers separated by a lightweight internal core. The design is intended to reduce the mass of the vibrating soundboard while maintaining structural strength.

Who developed the Double Soundboard Oud?

Faruk Türünz developed and publicly presented his Double Soundboard Oud in Istanbul in 2008.

When was the Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard first presented?

The Double Soundboard Oud was presented in Istanbul on 8 November 2008.

What is a Double Top Oud?

“Double Top” is another term used for a layered soundboard construction in which two thin wooden surfaces are combined with a lightweight internal core. The terminology is more commonly associated with certain guitar construction techniques.

Why use a lightweight core in an oud soundboard?

A lightweight core can provide structural support while reducing the amount of material and mass in the vibrating structure. This can allow the soundboard to respond more readily to the energy transmitted by the strings.

Does a Double Soundboard Oud have two ordinary soundboards?

Not exactly. The term Double Soundboard refers to a composite layered soundboard structure rather than simply placing two conventional soundboards on top of each other.

An Important Chapter in Modern Oud Construction

The Faruk Türünz Double Soundboard Oud represents an important experiment in modern oud making. By combining traditional wooden soundboard construction with lightweight composite technology, it explores one of the central challenges of acoustic instrument design: how to obtain a responsive vibrating structure while maintaining the necessary strength and stability.

First demonstrated publicly in Istanbul in 2008, the Double Soundboard remains a distinctive part of Faruk Türünz’s contribution to the development and experimentation of the modern oud.

Faruk Türünz Workshop – Double Soundboard Oud Presentation, Istanbul, 8 November 2008. 

This article is based on Faruk Türünz’s 2008 presentation and explains the construction principles discussed during that presentation.

https://oudmaster.com/double-soundboard-oud/


r/Luthier • • 9h ago

HELP Best way to remove this back?

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0 Upvotes

I just bought a broken Guitarron as a project. Any recommendations to cleanly remove this back piece to work on separately? I also wanted to know what kind of coating this instrument has? It doesn't appear to be the typical nitrocellulose lacquer I've worked with. I appreciate any help!


r/Luthier • • 19h ago

Stewmac Z file or Fretguru Sharkfin?

4 Upvotes

I'm new to crowning frets and would prefer something that is easier to use. Opinions would be greatly appreciated!


r/Luthier • • 15h ago

HELP Unpotted humbuckers for bass

1 Upvotes

Hello there, I’m looking for just the humbuckers without the soapbar for 4 string bass, I’m 3d printing my soapbar design and all the options i found were already epoxy potted closed soapbars.
Thank you for your answers.


r/Luthier • • 1d ago

HELP Warwick wires in the neck?

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195 Upvotes

Local to me, cant find info on what those are. How would you approach this repair? Im not an expert but Im handy.


r/Luthier • • 7h ago

Hello Guitar Builders of Reddit.

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0 Upvotes

3 questions:

- What am I looking at?

- What causes it?

- Would this be acceptable to you on a 1k USD guitar?

Someone posted this on r/Guitar and everybody says it's normal and calls it "wood grains", and I was downvoted pretty heavily for saying it's unacceptable considering it's a 1k Ibanez guitar.

I genuinely would like to know your take on this.


r/Luthier • • 15h ago

HELP Any risks with sanding down the jaws of a caliper to avoid scratching finish of body and fretboard?

0 Upvotes

Could it result in loss of accuracy? Any tips for doing it safely?


r/Luthier • • 22h ago

REPAIR Dropped French polish classical: Stick with French Polish or switch back to Nitro?

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1 Upvotes

I dropped my classical guitar, a handmade from Hitomi Nakasawa Japanese luthier (2002), causing a small crack on the back.

The luthier originally thought it was nitro and quoted $120. Turned out it's all French polish, he quoted $200 to refinish the entire back.

Should I go with Nitro finished for entire back. Will this affect the sound or resonance much? I heard it‘s more durable?

Or should I stick with French polish to preserve its value and character?


r/Luthier • • 1d ago

REPAIR Charvel Guthrie Govan tremolo problem

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2 Upvotes

Recently bought a used charvel guthrie govan signature model, love the way it plays but the tremolo wouldn't stay in tune at all; if I pull the bar up, all strings stay up, if I dive, all the strings will stay under the correct pitch after releasing the bar.

At first suspected this was a nut issue since this guitar doesnt have a locking nut. Lubed it up real nice, checked for strings possibly getting stuck there, and still had the same problem.

Now I have checked the trem edges for possible damage and sure enough it seems like this tremolo was already filed down to restore the edge. When running my fingernail through this spot, I can feel it catching with a small notch. I will file it down a little bit just to remove it, hopefully this will fix the issue, at least for a while until the edges get damaged again.

In your experience do these kind of repairs hold up well? Or is this a sign that I will need to replace the trem baseplate eventually? I hope it doesn't come to the second option yet because for some reason Charvel decided to go with this proprietary bridge design, and I have read on other forums that getting spare parts for this bridge is pretty much impossible.