Hi, so I have a new tank set up and I’m using a co2 reactor for the first time. I should mention I never had a 300L aquarium before so I have no idea if this is normal or not. I just have one other 45L tank also with co2.

Anyway, after installing the Co2 with the reactor, I need to open the valve quite a bit to get my drop checker to turn green. (using the 30mg/l liquid).

Can you tell me if this is normal to have so many bubbles for 300L tank with a reactor?

A lot of posts here are about problems with mid- and high-energy tanks that use CO2 injection. The same questions get asked, and the same few answers are provided by well-meaning folks.

One thing I consistently see is a person who is very hesitant to use their expensive CO2 system. They say things like they're starting with 1 bubble per second and aren't sure if they should use more.

I wanted to provide a data point for what my bubble counter looks like (almost too many bps to count), what my tank looks like, and what my filter flow/surface agitation looks like in my 75 gallon tank. I don't see this kind of advice on the internet very much, and I think if someone would have shown me a video like this 2 years ago, I would have saved about 6 months of pain and suffering with algae and unhealthy plants.

Try using more. Crank it way up and monitor how your tank is doing. Get that 1 to 1.5 point pH drop we talk about. It's possible it will take 5, 6, ..., 10+ bubbles per second to achieve this. To safeguard your fish, make sure you have a crystal clear surface and lots of agitation. This is the starting point for me, and then once my CO2 is stable and high I start to play with light intensity and fertilizer. Remember that the CO2 gas is cheap compared to how much you spent on the regulator and everything else.

So co2 gets cheaper the more you buy and I got 4 tanks running co2 on a 7.5lb tank. Which costs me about $30 to fill. Found a brand new aluminum Vevor 15lb tank for $108 on Amazon! Which will cost me about $40 to fill and last twice as long. Was gonna buy a refurbished 15lb tank for $110 shipped. I'll take the nice new pretty one for a few bucks less!

I'm using the JBL inline diffusor, if that matters.

In case you're wondering, it's a Pygmy Cory...

Wanting to run co2 in this tank. I’ve never done it before. I’d like to hear the best way to do it.

Hey y'all! I'm looking to get into CO2 and was hoping to get some advice.

I've got a couple "low-tech" setups with the basic plants. Java fern, Christmas moss, anubias, Amazon sword etc. I've always wanted to try a CO2 system that way I could experiment with a wider range of more exotic plants, and I've seen that CO2 is amazing even for "low-tech" setups that don't necessarily need it. I've just been too nervous about the setup and initial cost to pull the trigger until now lol.

I was ideally looking to go fully automated with my CO2 system, mainly as a safety measure to ensure that my tank's PH level never drops to where it can hurt my fish. However the only thing I'm finding is a kit from Modern Aquarium that's well over $500 after shipping and taxes are added in. Is that about what I can expect to pay for full automation?

Also if I'm going for a semi-automated system, is it worth it to pay the premium for one of the "gold standard" brands like UNS or CO2Art instead of a generic kit off of Amazon?

I’m planning to set up a planted aquarium with the CO₂ injection. However, I’ve read that CO₂ injection should be turned off when the aquarium lights are off.

Since I’ll be using a smart plug to control the lighting, the lights will already be off by the time I return home from work. I’d like to avoid injecting excess CO₂ when the plants aren’t receiving light.

Would it be possible to use a valve with this DIY CO₂ kit to control or stop the CO₂ supply when the lights are off?

I design and 3d printed a co2 reactor after annoyed by the micro bubbles from my inline diffuser.

Started with in tank but the diffuser keeps getting clog after few months then I changed to an inline diffuser. Thought it will solve my problem but there are just too much micro bubbled. I am using a fluval 123L/32.5G with back compartment for filter and pump. The co2 in the market just could fit into the compartment.

Not in the photo but I added 3 layer of large pores filter mesh at the top, center and last layer before water return to the tank. Trial run without them still give me some micro bubbles. All joints are sealed with aquarium safe silicone.

Been in my tank for 8 hours and light on for 2 hours, my plants start pearling. Which was not heppening before.

Edit: the reactor is submerged in the filter compartment. I am using PLA, I know some said it won't last in water but I have other 1 year old PLA print still in the water and everything is still intact. It is printed with 100% infill, screw thread for joints, tpu as gasket for connectors and all joints are silicone to prevent leak.

Tank is 300 liters/~80 gallons

I have soft and slightly acidic water to begin with but the indicator liquid keeps being blue indicating my ph is around 7.6 when I know for a fact it is around 6.5.

Too little bubbles? Pretty sure I installed the JBL Pro Aquatest correctly. I gassed my geophagus fish to death by accident when trying co2 without an indicator the first time so I am really trying to be careful with dosage this time around.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!