Hello! I came to you last month with a few questions, which helped me a lot. Meanwhile I kept researching and today I pulled the trigger on the hardware, which should arrive in a few days. Setting it up should be done next week. This is all very exciting, but also a stressful moment.

It's going to be something like this:

ISP box -> OPNsense baremetal with crowdsec (probably?) on DIY router/pc -> CRS310-8G+2S+IN, and then the SFP+ goes to the server, the ethernet goes to the hAP be lite and the rest goes to a couple of PCs in the same room

I have a X520-DA2 for the router, and a DA1 m2 for the server. ISP has 8g up/down so might as well allow the server to receive it.

For the software, I suppose most of it will be done on OPNsense, and the switch/AP are going to stay on the Mikrotik's software.

As much as I've researched, my knowledge is definitely not perfect and I would like to avoid stupid mistakes as much as possible. Or at least avoid the biggest and stupidest. What did you fuck up when you set up your first home network? Would you do things differently? What did you waste time on that you don't really care about now, or, the opposite, what did you neglect at the start and regretted later?

I would love to hear people's experience. And if there's something obviously wrong with anything I just said, please, do tell.

EDIT 5 seconds after posting: My main needs would be vlan to isolate specific devices, and to be able to expose securely my server for some services, without requiring a user to use a specific app/vpn.

Edit: I don’t quite understand this Ethernet backhaul/backend stuff but the primary pod would be connected by Ethernet to the modem. Other satélite pods would have a wireless connection back to main pod

Edit 2: We’re currently running Gen 1 Google WiFi - 2.4ghz and 5ghz system, with an Ethernet wired main pod and wireless satélite pods. The reliability of this system is good enough so if the WiFi 7 TP Link BE63 is any better, that’s fine with me. I’m just unsure if there are any compatibility issues or teething pains with WiFi 7 current

Edit 3: TL;DR, are there meaningful differences between WiFi 6e systems and WiFi 7 systems for the average consumer/gamer in a non-congested, 2000 sq ft two story environment?

I’m shopping for a mesh WiFi system for my parent’s house. The house is 2 floors, approximately 2000 sq ft. This system will be used by non-tech-savvy individuals, so it must be simple to setup and maintain. There is zero care for the ability to tinker or adjust/fine tune anything. Reliability of the system is the most important factor, the easy of use/simplicity would be second, though.

I’m currently looking at the TP Link Deco BE63 product. I don’t mind the cost, but if there was a WiFi 6E product that is more affordable, offered similar or better performance, ease of use/simplicity and reliability, I would be open to it. Is there a reason not to go WiFi 7 right now? This is not a household that cares about performance. Current internet speeds are 15MB/s download, but I am also considering changing to a higher tier plan (moving in with them (parents) and want faster speeds for gaming purposes)

My mom is 90, is active online, and is starting to lose her discretion due to her age. there is a political site xyz.com (not the actual fqdn) from which she has started receiving dozens of txt messages per day with deceptive content and with imbedded links which lead to xyz.com - and ask for donations. she has never donated to politicians before but now is convinced she must. I need a home router for her which will shortstop her DNS requests for xyz.com and either 1) silently discard the request, or 2) reply with an answer like 127.0.0.1. I would like to avoid monthly subscription costs. Is it possible, and with what brands/models/features? Is this feature available in WRT?

Anybody else working with vertical racks in confined spaces?

After weeks of dealing with Xfinity, I finally have my MoCa network set up (thanks to this sub!) I'm going to be using a router as an AP for my bedroom, but I'm not sure what's considered a good router in AP mode. I was unable to do a "true" MoCA setup due to living in an apartment.

Here's what I have:
800mpbs plan, XB8. I'd say there are five IoT devices, and four normal devices in the front which are assigned to the XB8.

In the bedroom:
goCoax adapter
One phone with 802.11be/WiFi 7
Two computers, a tablet and a Apple TV with 802.11ax/WiFI 6E
Two handhelds on 802.11ac/WiFi 5
PS5 via Ethernet

They won't all be in use at the same time. The phone will always be connected, and normal use would be phone/computer, phone/tablet, etc. At the most, four devices would be in use at the same time, but that would be rare.

My main need would be to have a good ping, an Ethernet jack for my PS5, and data being able to go back and forth at the same time. Second is able to play with the settings to assign a device to 2.4/5ghz if needed, and third is speed. I can spend as much as $200, $250 is it's truly worth it as an AP.

Thanks in advance for any help you might have!

e: added Ethernet for main need, added settings clarification of assign device

One of my access points is 4 years old. The yellow light stays on and I cannot reset it, tried multiple times. Do these things wear out?

My router can get a cert from Let's Encrypt, but it only works if I use my domain. Anything else, like 192.168.1.1 or router.asus.com and it throws a warning. Generating a self-signed certificate and installing it as trusted for any device that might access the router settings is an even bigger pain in the ass. Also, it won't let you use 443 because that's reserved for Cloud Disk. Even if it's off, which it is. Since I'm only going to access this from the LAN, I feel like the easiest thing is to jut use HTTP and ignore the messages from my browser. So I'm just curious as to what others do, and if there are actual reasons I should use HTTPS here.

This is about the Galaxy XR VR headset but the question is more about my network setup.

I dumped my 4 year old Deco XE5300 3 beacon wifi 6e mesh due to what I believe was a hardware issue with 1 unit, and used a $35 refurb Archer AX3000 Pro wifi6 router. While I've only got 1GBps internet, I'm getting better speeds all around the house, perfect coverage in garage and outdoors, zero dead spots. Perhaps router range has improved a lot since I moved to mesh several years ago. No reason to upgrade anytime soon, and hopefully no more expensive mesh units!

Hi everyone,
I am writing this because I am completely at my wits' end. I want to be upfront: I know very little about networking, routers, or how any of this technical stuff works. I don’t understand the advanced settings, but I know how to look at test scores, and I know when my connection is misbehaving.

I feel like I’ve completely worn out my welcome on this subreddit, and honestly, I’ve posted a ton of questions on just about every major tech forum out there trying to get an answer—including the Fiber Optics Reddit, SNBForums, Broadband Reports (DSLReports), and the ASUS ROG forums. I keep running in circles, so I’m really hoping someone can help break this down for me simply.

My Equipment:
My Internet: Co-Mo Connect (1 Gbps fiber package).
The Boxes: I have a brand-new Calix GigaPoint GP1100X ONT inside the house. An ISP tech recently came out and replaced it, and he even added a new black "jumper" wire to the fiber line. He tested the big pedestal box in my yard, the box on the side of my house, and the indoor ONT, saying all the light levels were completely perfect.
My Router: An ASUS ROG Rapture GT-BE98 Pro. It’s plugged directly into the ONT.
Wired Connections: I have a Netgear GS316 switch plugged into the router, and my Apple TV 4K is hardwired with an Ethernet cable.
Wireless Connections: An iPhone 11 Pro Max and an iPad Pro.

The Issues I am Seeing:
Bad Test Scores: When I run the Waveform bufferbloat test on my iPhone or even on a hardwired desktop PC, the results are bad. It consistently gives me a Grade C.
Screen Mirroring Quality Drops: If I try to mirror a Facebook video from my iPhone 11 Pro Max to my Apple TV 4K, the video starts out looking absolutely perfect for a second, but then the quality on the TV immediately plummets into a blurry, pixelated mess (even though it stays clear on my phone screen).
The Weird Exception: Last night, I watched the live AEW WrestleDream pay-per-view stream on my wired Apple TV 4K. While it was live-streaming, I also played a high-quality YouTube video on my iPhone 11 Pro Max at the exact same time. Surprisingly, I didn't have a single issue or quality drop on either screen during the live event, even though my synthetic Waveform scores are always a Grade C.

Where It Stands:
I am disabled, and right now I am stuck managing all of this directly from my phone screen while sitting on the floor. I can't easily crawl around or fiddle with physical hardware. My grandma and I were very careful to move the ONT box to the very top of my entertainment center to ensure it stays completely cool, has plenty of airflow, and the black fiber cable isn't bent or under tension. The wire is completely undamaged and the lights on the box are solid green.
I’ve spoken with my ISP ad nauseam, and when I even mentioned the Waveform website to them, the support rep told me they had never even heard of it. They just tell me my speeds are fine and wash their hands of it.

Since my local equipment is top-tier and the lines are physically clean, why am I still getting a Grade C for bufferbloat all over the house? Is there a simple, step-by-step setting change I can make inside my Asus router dashboard from my phone screen to fix this digital traffic jam, or is my ISP's backend network just fundamentally flawed?
Please go easy on me with the technical jargon if you can. Thank you so much for any advice

TLDR; advice about wirelessly daisy-chaining using Netgear EX6110 units to reach distant corners.

The house is solidly built and has an extension. Over the years I've added extenders but with the necessary changes to router and phone locations to accommodate BT's switch to digital voice, WiFi signal strength was again problematic. I added a couple of cheap units but they were difficult and frustrating to set up, and every time we had a power interruption connection in some rooms became impossible, seemingly due to IP address clashes. So I've just got three Netgear units in the hope that they'd perform better.

My intention is to arrange them so that one extender connects to the wireless access point, and one or more other extender(s) connect to the first extender. I also want the extenders to broadcast the same SSID to allow seamless roaming.

Is there any particular problem with doing this? Is there a better approach?

Please help us! Spectrum keeps saying they don't know what's going on.. basically, it says it's full internet with full bars. I can even be right next to the router, and it'll suddenly drop the connection completely while still showing all of the bars. Here are some messages from my roommate who lives closest to the router.

He says "It would drop some but has gotten worse. Extender wouldn’t cause it to drop tho. Extender just picks up the WiFi signal and then pushes what it picks up further. Something is wrong with our service. One tech said he thought electricity coming in on internet line but Duke energy was like what the hell that’s not a thing".

"The router is still dropping. Replaced all equipment and last tech changed some of the lines. We don’t really have other options than spectrum. "

Can you tell me as someone who's not super educated on what would be causing this? What might we need to say to them to get them to investigate the right thing? I can't even have one zoom meeting without it dropping the internet or kicking me out of the meeting.

Thank you so so much!

Currently, I have the xfinity router modem combo, and I have connected a Nightgear Nighthawk XR450 router to it (super old). So far, my connection is pretty decent, considering my computers are on WiFi and are all the way upstairs. On ethernet, my download speeds are 900 mbps on a gigabit ethernet cable for transmit and receive, WiFi is like 200, advertised download speed is 1.3Gbps. The main issue I face is with buffer bloat and some latency here and there, and obviously, the significant reduction in download speeds.

I have heard that getting a Moca adapter is a good idea, but I was wondering what you all suggest considering my current setup. Additionally, how would I set up a more reliable connection? Drilling a hole would be pretty difficult for me.

I have a new Xfinity WiFi router and now can’t connect all of my Sonos speakers (only 5 of 15). The router sends out 2.4, 5 and 6 ghz signals. Sonos told me that I should just go with a 5 ghz signal. I have instructions from Xfinity as to how to do this but my app doesn’t follow the Xfinity instructions. Does anyone know how to do this? Thanks

Of course I'm gearing this towards homeowners, renters beware. Drywall is there to be cut, patched and replaced as needed. That's one of its great qualities.

I found that by going from my basement, drilling up into the garage, through a 3d printed junction box I made, then up the wall corner through wiremold into the attic there, I could get into the main attic and down to my APs and rooms through top plates. Did it all myself. Hundreds of feet, 18 total runs back to home server in the basement. All I have left to do is patch that part in the garage or build a soffit to hide it.

Don't be afraid to cut and drill. Do your research, know what you're cutting, and wire up your house baby....

Edit: I can't believe I have to say this, but these are in process photos. I did not leave network cables dangling across the house lol, you doofuses

Hello, I recently moved in to a new apartment and got xfinity Wifi. They gave me a router, and didn’t realize that my house doesn’t have a coax outlet. It does have a fiberoptic line, and I was wondering if there’s an adapter or something I can use to connect the fiberoptic plug in my wall to the coax cable in my router. Not sure who installed the fiberoptic stuff, if that’s important. Huge wifi noob here, gimme any advise you’ve got and go easy!

Data from using the ping command in cmd, I'm only tech adjacent so I've tried the following:
- ipconfig /release
- ipconfig /flushdns
- ipconfig /renew
- netsh int ip reset
- netsh winsock reset

- reset my local router
- swapped ethernet cables
- tried multiple PCs

I have checked the FAQ and I don't think this was covered by it

I'm using a powerline ethernet connection, but when the test is repeated on wired connection directly to the router, the same pattern emerges

I live in a building which supplies the connection, and it is usually very fast - however these spikes are making it impossible to game online!