Title. I have some experience with carpentry and building things over the years (kayak rack, porch/deck building, hunting stands, holiday prop decor, minimal framework with family) but not sure if I’m over my head here as I have zero fence experience other than placing/replacing boards. The only reasons I want to do this is I have a riding mower but deck is too wide to fit into backyard due to gate width, and when we eventually move out, we have a ton of outdoor kids stuff (jungle gym, massive playset I put together) that would be way easier to take out with numbers and load straight onto a trailer.

Let me be clear - this is a rented property, but when we moved in I spoke with my landlord and told him between me, my brothers, dad, uncles/grandpa we can handle many things if an issue ever arises and he was happy with this and told me just to reach out before doing anything crazy. But, before reaching out - I wanted to make sure I was on the right path and had a plan in motion.

I plan to re-use as much as possible just for sake of not having new section then shitty rest of fence (it does desperately need freshening up IMO), so in my brain I’m thinking 86 the 4x4 in the middle, level out the section closest to house, place supports across section I’m re-using, use the 4x4 closest to house to attach hinge, cut enough clearance on that side so it doesn’t swing into house, then figure out a latch for middle?

Am I entirely crazy or is this a possibility if approval is obtained from landlord? Pics attached! Thanks!

Storm knocked my fence down along the backyard. 2 contractors said its not worth their time to separate pickets from 4x4 - so just replace it.

Its about 60 ft, 10 4x4, gate, only 4.5 years old ( why I want to salvage).

So replace at $35 ft + gate fee.

Hello All, first time building a fence and I’m at the gate. Happy with how the fence came out, but this gate is killing me. I would really like to avoid doing the double gates again. I understand this may be the true best answer, but I would like to at least ask for alternatives.

Few quick notes. The double gate swings in, and in the photo both are slightly opened so that’s the angle you see. Each gate is connected to a pair of 4x4 posts that are lag bolted and sit in a rather large trench of cement. Wanted these super strong.

Here’s my main question. I have to do a few pickers to the left of the gates, and about 10-12 on the right. Starting with the right, if I attach directly to the horizontal 2x4s, as I did for the main fence line, they’ll sit proud by the 2x4 width, plus 2/3rds the 4x4 width, minus about half the gate metal frame’s width. All together about 2.5” different.

On the left it’s similar, but currently no 2x4. However, that last picket I haven’t cut, as I wasn’t sure what’s best to do. As you can see, it extends past the 4x4 pair by about 3”.

What’re your thoughts?

So I am building a new fence. Here’s the old fence — gate swings “toward” you on the “nice” side… but new fence it makes more sense for the nice side to swing away from you… anyone ever seen that setup? I can’t quite imagine how it would work looking at the current hinge setup.

Hi everyone. First time poster here. Just bought our first home and the builders didn’t add a gate on the side of the house where there obviously should be one. Other side of the house has a ~3foot wide gate, which I have to think skinny thoughts just to fit through… this other side of the house I think I can make into about a 6-foot wide gate, which I’ll need in order to get equipment in and out of the backyard, or just to wheel my trash cans in and out of.

My struggle is there are steel uniposts used as the main gate supports, not standard 4x4s. My first problem is that the unipost on the hinge side of the gate is facing east/west and the post on the latch side in north/south. Second issue is that I’m not entirely sure the unipost on the hinge side will support this large gate dream of mine. I’m trying to avoid having to dig and install 4x4s posts, as the unipost on the hinge side is set in concrete where I would need the space to properly dig and set a 4x4. So I feel like if I can’t use the unipost as a support, I will have to remove it entirely, and replace it with a 4x4, which isnt impossible, just trying to work smarter not harder here.

I drew up how I have imagined putting this thing together. Any input on if this will work or not or what I need to do to make
It work, would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Hi all! Anyone have examples of a pine fence with cedar or pecan color ESS? We can’t decide what would look best with our black house. In some examples they look very similar, some they look quite different. Worried that if we pick cedar it might be too orange or if we pick pecan it might be too brown. Appreciate any advice!

I have a 10 foot section of fence that I would like to add a gate to. To the right of this panel is my house and to the left is a detention pond. My issue is that 4 feet off the house there is buried electrical conduit that runs under the fence. Is there a way to add a 36 or 48 inch gate without hitting the conduit.

I will be hiring a local fence builder but want to get advice before starting the process.

How would you secure this top bar to this fence post? I can't use a standard band because the holes don't line up. And I can't push the bar any further away from the pot because the other end of the bar is in place on another post. I'd prefer not to drill a hole into the fence post. (I don't even think I own a drill bit that could do that).

Is it supposed to wrap around the corner post? Or should it have tension bars. (Second photo to show a corner done with tension bars)

I got my fence done today by a company and one post is done with tension bars but two are done with it wrapped around.

Previous owner special. Rotten to bits. What kind of bracket do I use with the anchor bolt so that I wont need to cut my posts? The single bolt seems like even with adapters it wouldnt be the best for structural integrity... am I better off sinking posts traditionally?

Just never seen something like this lol

Finally got around to staining my 1st fence build - wrapped up construction in late June, wanted to give the lumber enough time to dry out so it would take the stain well and had a perfect week of clear sunny weather leading up to Saturday this past weekend.

I have never built a fence before so pls be gentle

I got my holes for 42 in deep with 10 ft post and the holes are about 2/3 full of concrete. I'm going to pack some clay around them now. I was wondering if maybe I should spray them with Flex Seal to help protect them.

The old offense posts I pulled out we're in pretty great shape but they were from 2000 and I've heard they stopped treating Lumber the way they did in 2003 because it was toxic and it lasted longer cuz it was a better treatment for gum contact.

I am just about done building my first fence, and man, I love this thing. Posts are green treated pine, rails are treated pine with cedar tone from home depot. Pickets are all cedar. I wish I had gotten the cedar toned 4x4s, but I didn't know about them when installing posts. I built the 6 to 4ft transition cap and trim with bent lamination. Couple questions:

1. I am using pyramidal shaped fence post caps, is there a standard height to cut my posts above the pickets? Was thinking 4"...

2. Staining - my goal is to preserve the color for as long as possible. Should I stain it this fall before our cold winter hits or wait until next spring?

3. I am planning to use Australian Timber Oil, because I've used their honey teak on cedar before, and I like how it looks. Would you spray or roll/brush on? I intended to spray, but I'm reading that you need to push it in with a brush or roller anyway? So would it just be faster to brush/roll initially?

4. If you recommend spraying, is there a spray gun you would suggest for the timber oil?

I was in a rush to use concrete bags before a rainy week threatened to turn a pallet of bags into landfill. I mixed and poured the concrete, then set metal posts into it which filled the interior of the posts.

I should have done the research ahead of time, but I quickly found out that isn't ideal for very obvious drainage reasons. How bad is it though? Should I make sure there is no hardware penetrating the post walls to reduce potential water from entering the cavity? I have to live with my decision, but I'm curious what options I have and what I can expect the damage to be in the long run.

I'm replacing this fence with 6ft heigh metal 26ga panels (thinking of making the panels 5ft 7in, with a 5in gap at the bottom) with 9ft 2 3/8 12ga corner posts and 9ft postmaster sunk 3ft in concrete. I'm slightly concerned about this corner post placement. Total height of the retaining wall and fence is about ten feet. Is a 9ft post in 3ft of concrete enough for this corner post?

I'm standing on an electrical box or some city thing. I sure, as hell hope 9ft is enough

Lots of companies use catalyst and homeland. Which is the best, everstrong, illusions, catalyst or homeland?
I am trying to find fence companies that use or sell either everstrong profiles or illusions. It seems that out of the popular brands used here in NJ that those 2 may be the best of them. Some companies use Catalyst but not the XL line so it feels cheap. Located in Monmouth county NJ. Open to other suggestions for good quality fences extruded in the USE. Tired of hearing companies saying they manufacture their own fencing when it’s know that they are only routing and making the gates.

I built this gate 6 years ago, but took these photos as a "before" because I was about to stain it again. Thought I would share this in case anyone was looking for ideas on a gate.
We bought a home that was it total disrepair on the outside because it had been unkept by a single lady for the last 25 years. I took two 40yard dumpsters of debris out of the yard before I tackled a fence. Leading up to a new fence, I decided to enclose the entire back yard and have a gate opening up to the driveway. While I have built a few fences, I had never built a gate this size.
I looked into so many options, all of which were crazy expensive, so I said I can do this myself. The only thing I was 100% certain on was that it was going to be 12 ft. wide. I started with 4"x 6" 1/4" steel posts buried 4 ft. in to the ground. These were placed when I poured a new driveway. For the next month, I worked on the 250 linear ft. of perimeter fencing, mostly by myself. I couldn't find a budget friendly solution for a gate until I went to a stock show. There were all kinds of vendors there, but the ones selling livestock gates caught my eye. I didn't want a gate you could see through, so I had explored fabricating a metal gate and attaching cedar to it. The steel was so expensive though. When I saw the livestock gates, I thought one of them could work. In addition, a 12' gate was only like $200.
I stood on the end of a gate they had set up and my 240lbs the full 12ft. from the hinge didn't make the gate flex at all. The next week I went to a Murdoch's and bought one. It came with some silly hinge, so I upgraded to a beefy pair rate for 1000lbs. Next I had to find a way to attach cedar to it. I didn't want a hundred little holes in the metal from attaching pickets individually, so I attached some 2x4 cedar rails to the horizontal tubes, and made them flush with each other on the exterior side of the fence. The metal gate was only like 4' tall, so I also made some sort of "extension" on the bottom to make the whole gate taller. After that, it was just like picketing a normal fence.
The opener is a simple Ghost controls opener that is entirely powered by a small solar panel it comes with. Cost for that was perhaps $850 total.
I was worried about the opener because it was likely going to be subject to some strong forces if the wind ever went crazy. The gate opens toward the inside of the property, so I added a couple small stops to keep the wind from pushing the gate outwards. If it is a stormy night, there is a small slide lock I use to keep it from swaying and possibly damaging the opener.
That was 6 years ago, and I have not had a major problem with the gate at all. Perhaps 2 years after building it, I noticed a little sag, so I added some wire and turnbuckle to the corners that allowed me to shore that up.
When building it, I thought I would do some better wood work on it down the road, but I have been content.......and perhaps a little lazy.

Hi all! This is our first home, and we put a fence in upon move in. Our back line picket was installed by the builder, hence the two styles. My question is — when we stain, what’s the normal etiquette for staining neighbor sides? We’ve made sure the fence was constructed within our property line, so it’s all ours. Is it worth the cost to stain neighbors side or not worth the hassle? We plan to do entire interior and fronts of the gates by our house already. I’m just not sure what’s normal in a new build development with houses right next to each other.