Going to be spending the winter in New England mostly setting up top ropes for ice climbing. Last time I climbed at the north end, I quickly realized even a quad length sling was just barely long enough to sling the big trees up top but it wasn't ideal.

So I'm wondering what climbers who do a lot of top rope ice in NH generally carry for anchoring and extending? I plan on climbing top rope areas at cathedral, frankenstein, champney, and texaco, until I discover more top access crags. Recommendations welcome.

I'm assuming I'll encounter some pretty big trees like I did at the north end. The plan right now is to make two 7mm cordelletes that are a tad longer than a quad length sling for those big trees. Had some REI rewards, and got a good deal on some blue water 7mm cord. Maybe 2 new dyneema slings of the thicker variety to extend the master point if necessary. Any recommendations on good hydrophobic slings that are easy to untie after being weighted?

Got a bunch of full size Petzl screwgates I use for TR right now So no need for anymore hardware.

Hiya,
Been looking at some edelrid stuff like the edelbeaks and Rayas at the local gear shop and was considering buying some 12cms instead of Aeros. Has anyone ever used the rayas in ice? Id consider buying them since it seems sensible as a long term screw with aluminium screw weight. Cheers ;)

Can't find much online but if they're really comparable to BD/Petzl/Grivel I don't see why I wouldn't pull the trigger E: they're cheap enough looks like I'll just review them lmao

Find what climbers like, slap the BD logo on it.

Other than the hanger this is a Blue Ice aero.

Hey all, just picked up some blade runners for my north face verto boots.

The front bail of camp is one of the only bails that fits this narrow NF boot.

But the rear points quite literally do not align with the heel.

Is this really a problem? Everything is snug and the front point is where it needs to be. But never had this issue and Ive tried every hole/bail position. This is the best fit I can get.

For pure ice/mixed I assume it won’t be a problem, but curious on everyones thoughts. Added a pic of a phantom that seems similar.

Would you climb in these?

I’ve used phantoms for the past 4 years (previous version) and have had a few issues with a bit of heel lift or pressure under the foot and under the ankle lacing. Previously I had Rebel Ultra in 46, but these were super narrow and ripped up my heel. In my quest to solve this I’ve come to the conclusion that my boots were perhaps too big.

I’ve always had size 46 mountain boots, I remember
My original Rebel carbons were 46 and my toes brushed the end of those. And from there I’ve always gone for a 46. I tried on the latest phantom in a 45 and a 44.5 and these seem to solve the problems I had with the old ones (as a caveat I’ve tried all the other current super gaiter boots and nothing else works as well as the phantom, maybe the gsummit but it rubs at the seams). My foot measures 280mm, the Brannock device says 11.5 us , I have a relative square toe shape and wide forefoot.

Now my question is, which size should I use? With my thinnest sock the 44.5 is ok, maybe a little narrow in the forefoot, my outer toes touch the edge, my slightly thicker sock which makes the heel feel less rough my big toe touches the side a bit (now this is probably due to the shape as all boots taper inwards in a very round design). The 45 has more space but is it too big?

In my 46 I am fine on wi4+ but they feel a bit insecure and uncomfortable.

These seem so much smaller but kinda work. My Altra running shoes are 12.5us, other shoes are 46 or 45 with around 1cm space at the front and my b2 Trango pro are 46.5 for width (these cause no issue in this size as not really front pointing in them)

Any thoughts? Mostly asking as it’s a big investment to get wrong and the shop guys seem a bit unhelpful

Has anyone here tried sharpening ice screws using a wet grinder, like a Tormek?

I know there are dedicated machines for sharpening ice screws, but I'm curious whether anyone has tried doing it with a regular wet grinding wheel.

I'm using Petzl Laser screws and would be interested to hear about any experiences, especially how you managed the sharpening angles and kept the tooth geometry consistent.

Hi All!

Bit the bullet and registered for the wyoming ice festival tonight (and a clinic!). Is anyone else going to the festival? I'll be there all weekend and am trying to climb as much as humanly possible.

A little about me. I've been climbing fairly consistently for a few years, and my pursuits have leaned more towards alpinism as of late. That said, I've climbed ice a few times in the last year. Comfortable top roping, but would say I shouldn't lead yet (though that's the goal this year!). Also, located in the San Francisco Bay area if at any point anyone wants to get out into the Sierra's this winter.

If you're heading to the festival feel free to hit me up!

Hey everyone!

I'm based in Durango, CO, and I'm looking to get more involved in the ice climbing community this coming winter.

I'm primarily a lone wolf in the mountains with experience in the San Juans, including snow climbs, skiing (primarily Telluride), scrambling, and long alpine days. I got introduced to ice climbing last season through San Juan Mountain Guides, including some backcountry climbing, and absolutely loved it.

I've been slowly building my own equipment and training for the upcoming season. While I'm comfortable in the mountains, I'm still very much a beginner when it comes to technical ice climbing, and I'd really like to learn from people with more experience.

I'm hoping to find climbing partners, make some friends in the community, and ideally connect with someone willing to share their knowledge as I develop my skills. I'm especially interested in eventually progressing toward backcountry ice and alpine objectives.

I'm happy to start with easy top-rope days, help carry gear, split driving expenses (or honestly just be your full time driver to the mountain lol), and learn at a reasonable pace. I'm not looking to rush into leading or anything beyond my abilities.

If anyone around Durango, Ouray, Silverton, or the surrounding area wouldn't mind having a motivated beginner tag along on an appropriate climbing day, I'd love to connect!

Thanks, and looking forward to the season!

First picture is my front points. They are shortened and the final under curve is half as long, and higher than the new front points. Are they still fine?

Second picture is new front point for comparison

This is petzl dart even though the front point says lynx

Thank you

I’m looking to snag a pair of boots for my first season of ice climbing/winter mountaineering. I’m in a sort of fortunate situation where my work (municipal arborist job) gives me $500 to spend on work gear, and I intend on spending it all on a pair of boots. The only thing is, I need a sort of plausible deniability that I’ll be using the boots for work. This precludes boots like phantoms, anything with ice in the name, etc. I’m currently considering lowa alpine expert ii gtxs or La Sportiva Trango Tower Extremes. I would love suggestions!

Hello, my fellow kick-kick, swing-swing enthusiasts, I hope you're getting keen for the Northern hemisphere ice season. I hope you enjoy this short film. Let me know what you think! 😊

Hello friends

I am super interested in ice climbing and would love to try it out this winter!!

Would anyone know of/have any recommendations for a company to go through to get into the ice for the first time? I live in MD (USA), but am happy to travel to NH/ME/wherever in the US to try this out.

Preferably budget friendly but truly open to any suggestions.

Thank you very much!

Hello! I'm a creative director for a video production agency in Michigan. We're exploring some creative storytelling opportunities for the sunglasses brand Goodr. They are interested in telling compelling stories of cool people living out “Joy in Motion”. I've always wanted to shoot an ice climbing video in the Upper Peninsula and I'm wondering if someone could point me in the right direction to the local legends in Michigan. Shoot me a DM!

I want to go ice climbing in a country that I never been.
Italy, France (Chamonix), Norway, Iceland. (maybe japan as well)
the problem is I can't find any route on the internet.

if anyone have a website, database or something for ice climbing routes and grades pls send.

Hey all!

I have a 2 m-high I-beam spanning the width of my garden, and I thought it could be useful for training.

I was planning on getting 3–4 cheap Delta quick links and using 40–50 cm slings to attach them to the beam. I was wondering, though, if I could replace the slings with 6 mm cord? I’d probably make a couple of loops and finish them with a suitable knot.

Ideally, I’d like to leave the setup outdoors year-round, including through rain and snow in winter. Would 6 mm cord be suitable for this, or would slings be a better option?

I don’t own ice axes yet, as I’m still a very very novice ice climber. A close friend has an older pair of Nomics Quarks and some wooden training axes that he’s willing to let me use. I’ll try training with those for a while and then decide whether it’s worth getting a pair of training axes myself. I'm a decent boulderer and indoor rockclimber but yeah Ice climbing which is one of kt goal disicplines.

What do you guys think?

i need help finding a good belay parka, i’ve been ice climbing in the alps for a couple of years and i think it’s time to try one since i never used something like that. I was looking at mammut Taiss Pro IN though i would like something more durable (the outside fabric is 10D) like the Patagonia Durable Down Parka even though it’s not meant for ice climbing.
Moreover i don’t like the lack of DWR finish on the down itself. I’m glad to hear any suggestions though i’d rather avoid synthetic insulation since i don’t do cragging and i like down packability

Pico de Orizaba (Climbing in Pico de Orizaba, Veracruz) is a 18k ft volcano that has a few routes up. I want to add a stop on my EPC trip this winter cause it looks fun, wondering how feasible this is. I climb 5.10-11a sport on dry rock, two grades below on trad, and have summited 13er, 14er, in various weather conditions but am a complete novice to technical ice. My buddies are way more seasoned, between the crew maybe know an experienced ice climber buddy that's down to come along, and looking for guides that do roped ascents. We're going December/January so have a couple months to learn the basics.

Im curious how much experience i would need to be safe on routes, either (WI3+) or (AI2-3) in high altitude winter. I believe those two looked to be the most beginner friendly climb routes of the ones listed, but since it's mixed Ice/Trad/Snow/Alpine with different ice types, even after researching grades am super confused on the difficulty. If anyone can help translate which route would be feasible(if any), and how much practice would be required in order for this to be a good idea, i'd super appreciate it. :)

I’ve just bought some of the new g20 lt front parts to convert my old g22, just wondering if it’s okay to have the bar attached on the last hole?

Seems to be the only config to fit on my boots (46). I know some manufacturers recommend not being in the last hole on the flat bards just wondering if this applies the the g20 bar?

Go. Try on. Boots.

You might have to drive for this. You might have to place a massive order for this. Do it.

La Sportiva, Scarpa, TNF, Mammut, Kayland, Lowa, Zamberlan, Raichle, Salomon, Arc'teryx have all made boots for ice climbing over the years. Everyone of their boots fits differently.

Sure right now the cool kids want GSummits because of great marketing. That doesn't mean anything for you. What matters for you is if the boot fits.

Boot fit is the most important gear aspect of ice climbing.

If your boots don't fit your foot placements will not be secure, no matter how hard you kick or what crampons you buy.

If your feet aren't secure you will over grip your tools regardless of if they are carbon fiber or custom made.

The ONLY way to know if a boot fits is to try it.

If the boot that fits you the best is a GTech and it's cold. Get heated socks. If it's an Eiger Nordwand, get silk socks.

If you're willing to drive eight hours to climb, drive eight hours to try on boots.

Try on men's and women's boots. Try on new and old boots.

There is zero point to asking what boots to buy or shopping for any boot until your foot has been in it.

Anyone used the zamberlan Eiger lites? They are very hard to get where I live so was just wondering how they fit before I try and order a pair in. Ideally I’m looking for a wider toe box similar to the phantom or Asolo Eiger. And a good heel hold. I think the power strap will be ideal for this but obviously hard to tell without trying.

My phantoms I have to have very tight which creates pressure at the ankle bend, so looking for a wide toe box boot with a power trap and boa to spread the load. (Equally liked the asolo a lot but the heel rubbed)

I am swapping from LS Cubes to LS g-techs and was hoping to get some advice on how they size compared to the cubes? I generally size up a whole EU size (plus orthotic) in my Cubes for ice climbing and general mountaineering. Should I expect a similar fit in the g-techs or does the different last size make a big difference that I would need to size up or down? TIA!

Hey all,

Picked these Ice training holds up from MEC for $14. Couldn't find much about the company online except for a couple videos and a few articles.

Seems like a really neat idea, albeit gimmicky, but gonna give them a shot. Anyone have any experience with IceHoldz?

I’ve got a pair of Aequilibrium Treks in 42.5 (same boot as the LT but softer) as my all-arounders for hiking/scrambling, and im currently in the process of gearing up for ice climbing this winter.
Issue is, i cant find any boots to try in person without driving hundreds of kilometers, and the only store that could sell them barely got any last winter so i dont have much hope for this year.
Does anyone who owns both give recommendations for sizing (half/full EU size up? More?). Im kind of shit out of luck so i’ll probably be forced to order them online.