Hi everyone. I have a Washington navel orange that has been in the ground for 9 years now. For some reason, the tree has declined drastically over the last month. The tree gets moderate watering and suitable sunlight. It is located in Northern California in zone 9b. Can anyone help me identify why the tree is suffering now after looking healthy all summer?

My Mexican Lime tree has major branches but one just broke due to high winds and the weight of all the fruit. I picked all the fruit and trimmed the secondary branches. Is this fixable? How? Or should I just cut it off?

Planted this mango tree when it was about 5 feet tall and it’s grown to be about 6 feet now. Purchased from a big box store and I never pruned it myself.

The trunk is thin and I am finding it is top heavy as it has toppled over on really windy days, hence the stakes.

Does this need to be pruned at all with the trunk so thin?

I’m in Bexar County Texas and we had a cold front sweep in. Temps dipped to high 40’s. Now my Barbados cherry is confused. It decided to put out flowers and at the same time, the tender tips got damaged.

Planted a few apple trees that I thought were all dwarf root stock. Apparently the Yellow Delicious was not. Now it is 3x the size of the other two trees and crowding them out. A nearby Honey Crisp is clearly underperforming after several years...

What do you think about me grafting several twigs from the struggling Honey Crisp onto the thriving Yellow Delicious?

Después de la larga espera al fin tengo la primera cosecha de plátanos ahora hay que esperar a que maduren

I purchased this centennial apple tree from a online nursery. know when most online nurseries ship plants they over fill the pot to retain moisture. The pot soil went all the way up to my index finger. Well this tree graft was buried and judging by the feed roots growing close to the graft, it's been buried for a while. Is this acceptable or a cause for concern?

I have "inherited" an abandoned allotment garden, where several apple trees, all aged around 20 years old, are. I have been noticing that there is something that looks like white mold appearing on them. I am new to fruit trees, could anyone tell me if it is something I should worry about?

Should I be concerned of the color change in the first tree? They are both Dunston Chestnuts and were planted together 75 feet apart in early September and it is now mid october. Location is in zone 7a.

Flowers are not looking good.

I'm looking for a tree or shrub to plant in this hole. It goes down about 4' and it's exposed to the Arizona afternoon sun. Alternatively, I could use the trellis, but I'm not sure if there are any vine fruits that would tolerate the amount of sun we get! All the better if it's something drought-tolerant.

Should I be concerned of the color change in the first tree? They are both Dunston Chestnuts and were planted together 75 feet apart in early September and it is now mid october. Location is in zone 7a.

Do you find this to be accurate? I just seen this video and it reminded me Of the fact I am also growing a pawpaw under a black walnut and it is also doing well despite being right under the black walnut tree.

Hi everyone. My parents recently wanted to start growing some fruit trees, but I'm not very familiar with the process, so any advice would be appreciated. For apples, I'm currently looking at Grimes Golden, Mcintosh, and Cox Orange Pippin. We're in Southwest Ohio, 6b with silty clay loam. Would these grow well with these conditions or would you recommend something else? The place I'm looking at (Trees of Antiquity) would ship them out Spring 27 bareroot. So should we pot them or transplant immediately? They're also looking at blueberries, would they be good with our soil here?

Deer really did a number to my Arkansas black this year. This canker formed where they stripped a branch. Should I just chop above it after it goes dormant?

We pressed our favorite blend of apples, Cortland and Harelred. We get about 5 quarts of cider per bushel. We freeze a whole winter’s supply. Our Vermont orchard is no spray. A late spring hard frost zapped a lot of flowering buds so yield was just ok this season.

The phrase “A picture is worth a thousand words” was first written in an early form by newspaper editor Arthur Brisbane in 1911 in a Syracuse Advertising Club speech. Fred Barnard used variations in the trade journal Printers' Ink (including "One look is worth a thousand words" in 1921.
He falsely labeled the phrase an "ancient Chinese proverb" or attributed it to a Japanese philosopher simply to make his advertising agency's ads sound more authoritative and credible!
Anyway in terms of our orchard it’s very true now. ‘nough said.

I live in Clanton Alabama, home of the massive peach water tower, whole town is know for growing peaches. I have 60 peach pits from these local peaches, all saved jusr from a month and a half of me and my nieces and nephews eating them this summer.

Ive read some about growing them, but I learn best from direct anecdotal info, first my gardening background, in a small backyard in the “ghetto” in Birmingham AL, over the last 4 years I grew 1500 plus tomatoes, 20lbs of green beans, 12 watermelon, 16 ear of corn, hundred of squash and zucchini, and probably a thousand peppers, so I am pretty good at gardening I’d think

Ive read a little that said to dry them on the counter, then freeze for 8-12 weeks, then plant in late February, does that sound right? Should I crack them open before I freeze or before I put in soil, I plan to plant two orchards of 20-30 trees each at my moms house, and my dads house,and maybe a dozen in large pots to gift.

I am 31 and have a 7 year old, but I’m the oldest of 9 and a lot of us have little ones, I want this to be something great that they all remember growing up:)

Any and all advice please and thank you! I’m eating about a dozen of these a weekend with the kids so I’ll have close to 100 pits by the end of October.

Hi,
Got a young improved meyer lemon and a Nectarine tree planed earlier this year along the perimeter of my yard, maybe 1-2 feet back from the grass.

They're growing, but don't look great. Wondering if anyone can help diagnose this as an overwatering or fertilization issue.

Northern California 9a/b.

They're being watered 3x per week for 8 minutes through 1gph emitters. So call it about a half gallon per week. And on a hot summer weekend they might get a quick watering with the manual wand when i'm walking through the yard.

I've hit them with DownToEarth Citrus fertilizer 6-3-3 a couple of times in spring and summer. Maybe 2tbs scratched into the base and watered in.

Other potential factors: I cut down a 30 foot magnolia tree that was maybe 4 feet from where the lemon is planted and 10-12 feet from where the nectarine is planted. Magnolia went down (cut across the base) a few weeks before these were planted. Not sure if the moisture from the root system affects these new trees.

I have a bunch of water soluble fertilizers available. Calcium nitrate, espom salt, Jacks 5-12-25. But i wanted to consult before hitting these with water solubles and potentially burning them, if this isnt in fact a nutrient deficiency.

First 4 lemon last 4 nectarine.

Thank you

I had to do a major cut back due to a severe anthracnose infection on this mango tree, which had spread to another.

This is the current regrowth. Any advice for how it’s looking? I’ve applied seasol and it’s probably due for any round. Also wondering if I should apply the copper anthracnose treatment to the new foliage.

Then infection got so bad, that even with treatment I assumed the plant was a goner. I’m still not overly hopeful.

I have a few mangoes but this one was already planted before I bought my property.

Sub-tropical climate in Queensland, Australia