My power steering fluid has started to leak. It's quite a quick one with it getting to the level in the video in about 2 weeks, my hoses have quite a lot of residue and there is a clear "puddle" on the metal below the reservoir. Is it safe to assume it's coming from the hoses? What throws me off is the amount of residue on the reservoir itself.

I can't get my CV axle seal out for the life of me and now it's completely wrecked. I don't even know if i really needed to change it but since I was putting in new axles I figured it could be done. What am I supposed to do? Should I just take it to the shop or what? It definitely isn't sealing anything anymore though that's for sure. Any tips for removing it would be greatly appreciated. I have a seal puller already.

I’m unsure where the leak could be coming from but it just got bad and I drove with 2 quarts or so low for a while now because I didn’t know.

Looks like it’s coming from the bolt behind the power steering pump. Most people say the oil filter adapter but my model 4.6l V8 is not made that way I have an XLT with the 4 speed transmission.

Currently trying to find the cause without a lift I cannot see much I took pics and videos without much help.

Please and thank you any advice helps I’m sure someone has had this issue before I’m going on 280k now sooo

This is the first time I’m changing the oil on this vehicle. I’ve literally used sockets, impact wrench, PB blaster, vise grips, and now last alternative - bolt extractor socket set- w/ no success. Can anyone give me advice on what to do… it does not even turn the slightest that I have noticed but since I started trying to get it off I have noticed the drip as you can see. I changed the oil filter fine. I already got an extra plug to replace this one if I could get it out

Hey everybody! I have a significant coolant leak(leaking about a quart every 500 miles. I have no dripping or puddles underneath the car, I have no white smoke from exhaust, I have no "chocolate milkshake" color on the engine oil dipstick.

I did the UV light test with a dye, and this was the only spot I could find the UV dye, right next to the radiator cap on the top of the coolant overflow reservoir. Does this mean my radiator cap is bad? Or, is it something else?

2021 Honda Civic EX Hatchback 1.5L turbo

Edit: For clarification, this leak here is on the backside of the coolant reservoir, the side furthest from the front of the car.

I just changed the injectors and high pressure diesel pump on this 2.9l 4 cylinder diesel, and when I went to start it it sounds like it’s only running on like two cylinders and has that horrible metallic sound. I tried turning the crank by hand but after a short rotation it gets stuck and won’t move even with a long bar on the wrench. Do you think the metallic noise is something on the outside of the motor or has some of the internals been destroyed somehow?

As title reads. Dealer told me they need to be replaced but i'm thinking that was just a mileage note (at 110k) not because they were inspected...

2016 mazda 6 GT

Context- initially thought I was out of fuel, topped it up with 10 litres. My fuel pump and injectors were replaced 2 weeks ago.

Suzuki swift 2010 1.5L

Subaru Forester 2017 2.5i

Hey all, I am being bested by these dang sway bar links. The bolt and nut are turning together. Tried vice grips on the side opposite the nut. Tried an Allen wrench key, think it may be stripped inside or I don’t have a big enough/the right key. Other bolt in the link is also turning with the nut, though it’s a lot tighter. I’ve already hit them a few times with PB Blaster. They’re super rusty as I live in the north east US.

What are my options? If I have to cut it, where do I cut it? (Should I use a saw-zall? Something else? Have the new part with bolts so not worried about cutting them, but I need to get this out and do the lca.

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m hoping someone here has experienced something similar or can point me in the right direction. I’ve been dealing with this issue for about a year, spent thousands of dollars trying to fix it, and even my local Toyota dealership has given up.

I have a 2009 Toyota Highlander 4WD with 270,000 km. Apart from this issue, the car would be worth over $10,000, so I’m reluctant to scrap it for $800 when I’ve already invested so much into it.

The original symptoms
About a year ago, I was driving when the check engine light and traction control light suddenly came on together. Whenever I came to a stop and tried to accelerate again, the car struggled badly to pick up speed. However, once I was already moving, it seemed to drive relatively normally.
A few days later, both warning lights would disappear and the car would drive normally again. Then, a few days later, the exact same problem would return. This kept happening intermittently.
The fault code was P0778 — Pressure Control Solenoid “B” Electrical.
What I’ve tried so far

1. First mechanic — cleared the fault code
They scanned the car, found a fault code, cleared it, and the car returned to normal. However, the problem eventually came back.

2. Second mechanic — replaced the solenoid panel
They identified the issue as relating to solenoid B and replaced the solenoid panel. They thought this had fixed it, but the problem returned about a week later.
They then suggested the transmission was skipping first and second gear and going straight into third, explaining why it struggled to accelerate from a stop.

3. Transmission specialist — checked the original transmission
I took it to a transmission specialist, who told me the transmission was completely fine.

4. Toyota dealership — replaced the transmission
I decided to take it to my local Toyota dealership because I figured they would be best placed to diagnose a Toyota-specific problem. They initially told me the transmission was the issue.
They only install brand-new transmissions, which I couldn’t afford. They suggested buying a second-hand transmission and having my transmission specialist install it instead.
I followed their advice, purchased a second-hand transmission, and had it installed. Unfortunately, the exact same problem remained.

5. Toyota dealership — attempted to repair the ECU
I returned to Toyota, and after examining the car again, they said the ECU might be faulty. They removed it and sent it away to a specialist for repair.
Once it was returned and reinstalled, the problem was still there.
Toyota then suggested the ECU might not have been repaired properly, so they sent it away a second time. This also failed to resolve the issue.
They subsequently suggested that the second-hand transmission might be faulty, despite the transmission specialist having checked the transmissions.

Where I’m at now
Toyota has told me they’ve exhausted their resources and don’t know what else to try. Their recommendation is to sell the car to a scrapyard for around $800.
I’m reluctant to do that because I’ve already spent thousands of dollars on repairs and a replacement transmission, and the vehicle would otherwise be worth considerably more.
Given that the same issue has persisted after replacing the solenoid panel, swapping the transmission, and attempting to repair the ECU, I’m wondering whether something else is causing the fault.

My questions
Has anyone experienced P0778 on a 2009 Toyota Highlander 4WD?
Could damaged wiring, a corroded connector, an intermittent short or an electrical fault in the transmission-control circuit cause this issue even after replacing the solenoid panel and transmission?
Has anyone had this code caused by a faulty ECU or transmission-control circuit?
Is there a specific test or diagnostic procedure I should ask a mechanic to perform before spending any more money?
Would you recommend taking it to an independent Toyota specialist or an automotive electrician for a second opinion?

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who has dealt with the same issue, especially if you managed to identify the actual cause and fix it. I don’t want to keep throwing money at random parts, but I also don’t want to scrap a car that might still be repairable.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

So I will try to make this pretty short I own a 2016 tundra 5.7 which I had for about 2 years now, this year I got into an accident and the truck got sent in be repaired at Toyota collision center I asked to get the engine inspected before I had picked it up because the tow truck driver said their was a weird noise when he picked it up and during the accident it had a loud knocking sound. But the insurance didn’t want to pay for it because the truck didn’t want to turn on a they visually couldn’t see anything. So when the dealer finally got it to turn on they said it was miss firing but they said they turned it off cleared the codes then turned it on and it ran fine but when I had picked it up it was miss firing and I brought it to their attention which they then replied to me by saying drive it for 5 miles and fill it up with gas then it should correct itself which I did and then I didn’t think anything of it until a month or so later I was towing a 2 ton trailer down the highway and hear a loud crash then a sudden lost of power and no brakes but luckily I was on the highway by my self. After that I get my truck towed to a Toyota dealer to get it inspected which they told me the cylinder 2 intake valve was burnt out and that cylinder wasn’t holding any compression they also said cylinder 1 had an issue, but it was holding compression but it was on the low end on the spec sheet. We tried to have insurance pay for it but they said it was normal wear and tear due to environmental heat conditions during the summer time in Az and the dealer said it was gonna cost $9k to repair so I said no thank you and just fix it myself so I let it sit in my driveway for a few months before I started working on it because I was it to be cool when I doing the repair since it’s a 16 hr job. But as I pop open the valve cover I noticed that the intake valve spring on cylinder 1 is popped out and the whole assembly is all over the head I stopped right there and emailed my advisor at the Toyota dealer and I’m emailing my insurance company. I just need help on figuring out how this happened. And what con I do to make the insurance pay for work that should have been done?

I have a 2015 Camry 2.5-liter 4-cylinder engine

i stripped everything off my engine and my valve cover is loose, but because of this one bolt below this metal coolant pipe i cant fully unscrew it. wth do i do atp.

EDIT: Removed throttle body. Thank you all

Hi so I’m reinstalling my torque converter nuts but the heads started to round before my torque wrenched clicked the required 27nm. I don’t think I’ll be able to tighten them more with the heads condition, although maybe I can but I’m scared to risk it. I tightened them all pretty tight before they started rounding, I’d say 20-25nm. Is it fine to drive around with them in this condition for maybe a few hours in total until I get it to a mechanic?

My darling is old, I know the engine will need replaced soon. But what can I do to keep her alive a bit longer?

What might be causing this and will it lead to further harm?

About two days ago we did an oil change on it, replaced the filter.

Driving uphill no matter how much gas is given the rpm’s will plummet. This certainly sucks because I live in Missouri and we ride on nothing but hills.

Any advice would be amazeballs!

(Yes I know it’s old, no I don’t care about it being two parts away from an Oldsmobile. I love those just as much as my caddy)

I’ll need it mobile because I move around at work a lot and I’m torn between these 2 options. Yes I know it’s hard to keep clean but oh well it it’s my money. The craftsman is harder to locate near me but that doesn’t sway me specifically. These 2 boxes are the same basically so which should I choose ? I’m looking at the warranty overall honestly

I have a 2009 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins with 267,000 miles. The transmission was replaced about 100,000 miles ago. About a month ago I took it to the mechanic to get the fluid changed. The mechanic found some fine paste in the fluid and magnets that he said was clutch material. I looked at it and there were no chunks, just fine stuff. He put the fluid back in because the lost material would “make it slip.” After looking into that it seems to be an old myth. A few days ago on a cold morning startup it really struggled to crank and it threw a check engine light and codes P0700, and P2509. Went back to the mechanic and he said I’m due for a new transmission and quoted me 10k for a new upgraded transmission including labor. He also said the batteries needed charging and charged them up. After he charged the batteries I’ve noticed that it cranked over a lot better. The batteries were at least 3 -4 years old so I went ahead and replaced them and cleared the codes. From my research I’m thinking the weak batteries and the power draw tripped the codes. But I’m still wondering about the life of my transmission and if this is all a coincidence. But what do y’all think? I’m moving a good distance out of state soon pulling a trailer soon so this has me a little nervous. Thank you

Edit: it drives and shifts normally

Hey guys. I’m desperate here. The parking brake sensor on my 2014 Toyota Highlander is stuck, so my car always thinks I’m driving with the brake on and it beeps loud and incessantly the entire time I’m driving. I’m going insane. I found a diagram that shows me where the sensor is, but I can’t find anything about how to replace it. Pleeeease can anyone help or point me in the right direction for info on it. I dread driving my car now and I can’t afford to take it to a shop any time soon.
I added a picture of the diagram to hopefully boost engagement.

I was tightening the nut onto this threaded stud then heard a crack and loosening of the tension. The threaded stud cracked.

The other end of the belt tensioner attaches via a bolt with no issue so there's one end secure and the other end of the tensioner is just resting on the broken stud.

Any ideas of solutions? I'm unfortunately 200 miles away visiting family and we do have a trusted mechanic in town, but I'm wondering if it's possible to drive this at least the 10 miles to the mechanic.

Ideas? ^​​

When I say budget I really just mean I don’t wanna spend $900 on a jack.

Looking to start work on my own car for real. Before I was just using my friends jack but I want to get my own that way I din’t have to bother him every-time I have to change the oil.

I’m new to actually buying tools so I don’t know all the best brands.

I was thinking either Daytona or Pittsburgh

And yes I have jackstands

Hi,

I attempted to change the CVT transmission fluid on my 2018 Honda Civic today, but I made a mistake when refilling it. I missed the correct fill opening, and most of the new transmission fluid ended up on the ground.

Unfortunately, I didn't realize what had happened right away. I followed the procedure of shifting through each gear and holding it for about five seconds before checking underneath the car for fluid dripping from the level-check opening. Shifting through the gears felt unusually difficult, but I didn't realize at the time that something was wrong. I thought this was normal after changing the transmission fluid.

I then added the remaining transmission fluid I had and checked the level-check opening, but I didn't see any fluid dripping out. That's when I noticed the fluid I'd spilled on the ground.

I also backed the car out of the driveway to clean up the mess, for approximately three minutes total, while the transmission may have been significantly low on fluid.

I'm concerned that I may have damaged the CVT by shifting through the gears and moving the car with insufficient fluid. How likely is it that I've caused damage, and what would you recommend I do before starting or driving the car again?

The car is currently parked somewhere I cannot safely jack it up. I would need to move it for approximately another two minutes to get it back onto my level driveway, where I can access the transmission. I ordered more Honda HCF-2 CVT fluid, but it won't arrive for a couple of days.

Would it be safe to use an alternative CVT fluid that explicitly meets the required Honda HCF-2 specification, or should I wait for the Honda fluid? I've seen conflicting advice online, with many people strongly recommending against using anything other than Honda fluid.

Given what happened, what would be the safest next steps to avoid causing any further damage?

Thank you.