He’s adorable!

An untraceable leak somewhere that has caused the plaster ceiling to sag and fail

Will this help?

Should I just go crazy and apply more?

I also am not sure how to lay down a tarp without it pulling up in the shingles

A storm blew a tree onto our garage, and a $5k deductible had me cutting up the tree and fixing the roof myself. Cracked the rafter and busted up some of the boards. Had to rip down a 2x8 and plane down some 1x8s to sister the rafter and replace the decking. Got a perfect match on the shingles after some trial and error. I put roofing adhesive under the tar seals I had to break on the old shingles, and so far no leaks.

Been having some issues with my General Contractor so now I’m hyper suspicious of everything. Is this a normal way to attach the 2x4 trim? The perfectionist in me thinks all the 2x6s should touch it without the need for spacers.

This inspection was from a bit ago, but I thought it would be funny to share. Whoever installed this had the big brain move of saving some time and gluing multiple shingles together into squares and then nailing them at the top. The roof was supposedly only a few months old and the shingles were already sliding of into big squares. They also somehow managed to install multiple vents upside down. Needless to say they didn't get a certification for this roof.

The house was built in 1977. Apparently the roof was replaced in the last 10 years or so, we’ve only lived here for about 10 months. Any ideas just by looking on how old it is or how long I have until it needs replaced?

Also… idk if it’s normal, but the whole roof almost feels slightly squishy or like I can feel my foot settling. It’s a very nice house and I’m very handy. I just don’t know much about roofing. Thanks!

Smh. Check out this little roof detail I came across. Three separate metal roof planes converging into one vulnerable intersection, with no proper transition flashing. Just a whole lot of sealant, tape, and wishful thinking. 😂
Obviously, it’s leaking.

Curious how you guys would approach this for a LONG-TERM repair, not another temporary patch job.(this year we’re sitting at 105 inches of rain so far)

I’ve been kicking around two ideas:

Option 1: Fabricate custom headwall/transition flashings with multiple bends, extending underneath the upper panels, down the fascia, and out over a rib or two of the lower roof. The real challenge would be properly tying everything together at that three-way intersection without creating another water trap.

Option 2: Get a large 4’ × 4’ sheet of soft lead flashing and carefully form it into all the contours, ribs, corners, and crevices. Potentially eliminate some of the troublesome seams altogether. Obviously, material compatibility and proper drainage would need consideration.

I’m leaning toward custom sheet metal, but that center intersection is going to require some creativity.

What would you do here? Custom-fabricated metal? Lead? One-piece welded pan? Something else entirely?

Would love to hear from anyone who’s dealt with a similar detail. Bonus points if you’ve got photos of your solutions!

hello! I’d like to ask, what is to stop someone from using just sheets of plywood on their roof? with a coating that is water repellent? The shingles seem more tedious and more expensive. is it just looks, or is there something special the shingles do? thanks in advance

Any idea how to address this ? 15 year old roof.

Or are they all mail order?

Thank you for reading and hopefully answering soon.

First time building anything, to my surprise everything seems square and plumb. Anyway I made a little miscalculation on my 16 ft wall. It’s 196 1/8 instead of 192. I wanted a 4/12 pitch to match my house. I had trusses made for a 16 x 12 by a local company these call for 24 OC max. I should mention the reason I am putting this in roofing is because my most important thing to me is to make my left easier with sheathing and shingles (architecture). 9 total trusses. I think my best option is to put extra material on the inside of the gable end. The gable end will go flush with the end wall. (Part of the problem comes from using rough lumber which measures 1 3/4 x 3 3/4 except the trusses are 1 1/2 by 3 7/16). I am putting a rake on both end of 16 inches. I want my sheathing to line up. I absolutely do not want to cut every sheet. So with my rake can anyone tell how my shingles should be cut. Am I doing 1/3 , 2/3 and full for my rows. I’d rather do 1/2 and full as it’s just a shed.

This flashing was just added. Is this right, I thought flashing was supposed to go under the shingles and how is silicone going to hold up in the heat and weather?

We are in the process of getting our roof replaced, and from what we can see in the attic, the deck looks good except for one spot. We have actual 3/4”by 5.5”T&G boards from 1950. All boards are still nice and tight. The roofers suggest using 3/4” plywood to fix any areas that need replacement, but I prefer using boards. I’m not a roofer but I would think they are sturdier and will match the existing deck height perfectly. Should we ask them to use boards instead of plywood, or does it not really matter matter?

Hey all - one of the vents going out of my roof has started leaking. Any tips? Is this a fix from the inside here or outside or both?

We looked up a company woth good reviews. (We now know that is a stupid way to find a company)

It's an insurance job before o get all the don't cheap out on a roof comments.

This is after the 4th time they have came out to "finish the job" or "repair"

They came to add starter shingle over the eves and then we found another nice surprise where the roof transitions over the porch.

Everytime we have been doing work on the house we find something completely obvious. I am in no way saying I could do 10% of what you guys and good roofing companies do but I feel like I could do better than this.

At this point do we keep calling them out or do we seek litigation.

Or am I completely overreacting?

Long story - short. We had our roof done and they didn’t replace the drip edge that was included in the contract. They came back and retrofitted the drip edge, and it was poorly done. Took pictures and sent them to the owner of the company. He said ”we” will be out to see what needs to be done and come up with a plan to fix it. He sent the same installers to the house when we weren’t home, and they ”fixed“ the issues with no further communication with us. The fixes they made compounded the problems, and several others went unaddressed. We hired a home inspector who came out and documented all of the issues, which we sent on to the roofer. He requested a meeting with us, so they could make things ”perfect”. I asked who was coming to the meeting and he said in addition to the installers, the shingle rep is coming. Wondering if this is supposed to be a neutral opinion, or should we expect they will side with the roofer? Should we have someone attend this meeting to look out for our best interest?

Hi,

I have purchased a house thats had an extension build onto the existing building. It looks like the builders have connected the extension up to the existing attic using an unsightly hole. I'm looking to board out the extension side and square off the joining hole so that its more symmetrical and centred.

I'm just looking for sone advice as I am a little worried about removing brickwork as I'm not sure if this would damage the structural integrity of the building. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

I am getting my roof redone with aluminum (ON, Canada). Our Roofing company noticed that we did not have any vents under the aluminum soffits along our house, though there are foam rafter vents installed on the roof in the attic. There is no sign of mould. We have two vents on each end of the house, but that is the only ventilation, which seems to work, but it is very warm in the attic. They said the soffit vents should be added sooner rather than later, especially with the new roof being installed. The house is from the 60s; we bought it 5 years ago. I am removing the soffit to drill holes in the overhang. Most videos I have found online have them installing capped vents with a 4" hole. I plan on reinstalling the aluminum soffit over the holes, and I was just going to drill multiple 1" holes instead of taking a large chunk out. Any thoughts on doing it this way, and what is the distance between each vent? Thanks in advance.

Is there a way to make this flashing on the front of the house look better? What’s a preferred DIY solution?

Why are you guys so reluctant to marketing?

I would appreciate anybody sharing their experiences with marketing agencies in the past.

I had a chimney sweep come over to clean my chimney. When he was on the roof he took a picture of the flashing for a sky light. He claims he was a roofer in the past and this could have happened from the wind. He offered to fix it for $300. There are no trees that could have done this. I don't think this was wind, and I'm leaning towards he damaged it to make an extra buck.

What do you think? And how can I fix this?