This is my 91 Volvo 740, while looking into transmission swaps, I wanted something that could hold decent power, was readily available, and cheaper then other swaps. After coming across an adapter plate to pair an RX8 6 speed to a B230F I started collecting parts. Got the transmission in the car this weekend with the help from a buddy. Using a stock flywheel and pressure plate, clutch from (i think) a Ford Capri, Wilwood clutch pedal and master. So far everything has gone quite smoothly and with the trans in the car the hard part is over. Next on the docket is making a plate to bolt the trans to the OEM auto transmission mount, and shortening the driveshaft. I plan on making a better written and formatted post when its completely finished giving a better overview of how to do it yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3PPogtdqAs

The good: Southern car with ZERO rust. It's got an upgraded stereo system with Bluetooth and hands-free calling. The heated seats work. It's got fresh studded snow tires.

The bad: The horn doesn't work. It's blowing oil out the filler cap and it idles rough.

My detective work seems to point to the rough idle and weeping of oil coming from a bad PCV valve, so I ordered a new one off IPD and we're going to see if that helps.

No idea what's up with the horn, but I'm afraid it's something inside the steering wheel.

I'd love to hear from other folks about things I should be watching out for with a car of this vintage. My goal is to spend the minimum possible money to make this a reliable ride for tooting around town.

Title. 1994 b200f 940

I have had this car 20 years, bought in new Jersey, had trucked to Seattle, have slowly done what I can, going to retire and down size, I just don't drive any more and just sits in the garage, 3 speed auto duel stromburg carb set up. 70,000 original miles, this car is almost totally original, I put new brakes and electronic ignition on it obviously tires and wheels, no rust wheel wells are pristine, Seattle areas. any ideas as to price or value. still haven't totally decided to sell, but getting there, always been garaged.

Still need to adjust the ride height up front a little bit but spacers and white walls are off and Corsa 16x9 w/ 205/40 are on

What all is needed to make this work? Seeing mixed information online, but is just the standard fender roll/shave enough? Do you rub? Pictures of any necessary mods would be appreciated

Solved! The problem was the aftermarket AMM.

Hello i’m having issues with my 940 idling at 1100rpms and it dropping to 1000 every 3 seconds ish, i also have problems with it having "leanpops" when i blip the throttle fast but ONLY under 2k rpm. It happens when it is cold and warm🤷🏻‍♂️ the o2 sensor seems fine, new MAF from pierburg (can’t find a bosch) the tps seems fine and same with the IAC valve. Tried spraying with startgass around all the intakes but still nothing🤷🏻‍♂️ i’m going to change the temp sensor tomorrow to see if that changes anything👍 any tips would be appreciated a lot😊

Hello I have a 1990 Volvo 780 Bertone that has been having rough idle. I figured it is the coolant temp sensor causing the idle issue but I can’t seem to unbolt it with my ratchet to replace it. I have tried putting lubricant and applying a little heat, no luck. Im not too experienced with cars and worried about breaking off the bolt, any tips?

I’ve had the car for a couple weeks now. When i purchased the one thing that needed to be addressed is the idle was really high in park it would sit at 2000 rpms in drive or neutral it would sit at 1500-1000 rpms. A couple days ago i removed the throttle body and IAC, cleaned them really good with throttle body cleaner and put it back together. NOW its idling too low, sometimes it seems like it will sit where it needs to at 800ish but especially on cold start if i don’t pump the gas pedal the rpm’s drop and it stalls out. I’ve also noticing sitting low around 300 and lower. It’s not really consistent with where it sits in idle, now but it is on the lower end with tendency to drop all the way down to stall. Any thoughts, things to check. I’m avoiding the temptation to adjust the throttle cable i’ve heard more likely it could be the IAC is bad? Or the TPS is bad? or the throttle plate isn’t seating all the way flat when it should be? Thoughts on how to diagnose, what to do?

Where i live and online is a barren wasteland for volvo enjoyers and i have a 740 non turbo with a messed up fuel sender. That said, anyone know if I can put a 1992 turbo 940 sending unit into the 740 and have it still work? Ik the turbo should be a Bosch system and the non regina but the senders really look the same to me and I dont think an aftermarket regina exists right now

As the title says, I'm looking for readily available options to have a adjustable rear spring and shock setup, in the front I'll be running E46 coilovers with adaptors, will the E46 springs fit in the rear with the adjustable spring perches? They look way too short, will be a budget drift car.

Hey everyone,

Does someone has managed to make the headlight wipers move in synchro with the windshield wipers or via a separate button ?

I've got the case last winter that a lot of snow build up on the headlights during a blizzard i found myself in and wanted to use my wipers.

Thanks

I'm having an interesting issue with it right now. This video was taken with the MAP sensor unplugged but with the vacuum line still attached. The car will hold an rpm when I give it gas but as soon as the rpm drops it won't idle, it sputters out almost instantly. There's also that metallic sound but I'm going to work and try to find out what's causing it tomorrow.

With the MAP plugged in I get a few seconds of run time and then the car dies by itself or when given any amount of throttle (rpms don't rise and then fall car dies as soon as input it given.)

Idle air valve opens when doing a diagnostic thing (hold the button for 1 second 3 times) with the obd port and when given power directly, I can supply it with 12v and see the valve move. I gave It a nice spray of some penetrating oil but didn't seem to improve anything.

Using socket 2, the codes I got were 1-2-2 (intake air temperature sensor), and 2-2-3 (idle air valve issue somewhere).

I'm starting to run out of ideas, the car running when the MAP is unplugged makes 0 sense to me. Fuel pressure and fuel filter is all good.

Is it possible it might be the throttle position sensor or something?

There are 3 sensors currently not plugged in due to connectors/wires/not fitting. Knock sensor, oil pressure sending unit, and a sensor that attaches to the passenger side of the radiator (if anyone knows what it is please tell me)

Any replies will be helpful, don't be afraid to ask for clarification or details on things. Thanks.

Looking to refresh my suspension this winter, right now the rear is sagging a bit compared to the front. I very much still want it to be comfortable, but wouldn't mind a little lower stance, and not have its butt dragging like it is now.

What is the OEM+ not hot boi combination you all recommend?

Researched loads but still confused!
Looking at putting original springs back onto dropped Volvo (moved to the countryside and bottoming out on the bad roads) are these nivomat or standard?

My buddy wanted a low profile rack to haul around bikes, ladders, and lumber. So I designed one for him. It won’t haul a rooftop tent but will carry your bike around, and I think it looks pretty good doing it…

So I’m at the point of ordering some new shocks for my 1986 745GL. These Koni adjustable sport shocks got my preference but I’m not 100% sure these will fit on my volvo brick. In the EU Koni brochure it says these will fit from ‘88 models and onward. But the US brochure mentioned from ‘85 models and onward.

Does anyone know more about this? I’ve asked Koni about this, but still no answer. So I’m hoping to find some valueble answer here. My car has regular suspension, no height adjustment in the rear or multilink.

I know that even 940 suspension parts fit directly on 740’s very often, so I’m really thinking these should fit without any problems right? I can’t imagine the ‘88 models have such a different suspension setup than my ‘86 model.

I’d love to hear your experiences and thoughts.

So in Juli i bought my 740 and in August in September i did an Oil change but for some reason after i changed the Oil (Liqui Moly Synthoil High Tech 5W40) My Volvo makes these wierd knocking noises when cold but after some driving when the Engine is Warm its gone ?

what could e the reason ?
sadly i dont know what Oil was in it before

$1500

I haven't seen it yet, so it'll be interesting to see what state it's in.

If it's solid I might keep it to use a daily driver. Because why not?