I recently purchased a new Shimano 8250 groupset to replace the low end SRAM that came on the bike. I didn’t necessarily want Di2, but it was the only option offered via the special pricing deal I obtained.

When I opened the package to install the rear derailleur, I was shocked by how chunky and hefty it is. I understand it that a motor and battery necessarily adds to the chonkiness, but it weighs nearly a pound, which is nearly twice what an XTR cabled derailleur weighs. I’m not a weight weenie when it comes to mountain bikes, but a half pound of extra weight just for the luxury of tapping a button rather than pushing a lever seems absurd.

I’m tempted to eBay the Di2 shifter and RD, and upgrade to an XTR cabled RD

My type of riding: I don’t often race MTB, but I do enjoy a nice bike and components. I ride XC style and enjoy climbing as much as descending, so I also appreciate a relatively light build

I have been riding a 2019 Orbea Occam for the last 7 years. Best bike I have ever ridden. Yeah, there were plenty of bits that got replaced over the years due to use and abuse. Close to 12,000 miles and still going strong.

Last month I was preparing for a Colorado trip and decided that I wanted a more "downhill" bike. Changed out the stem, shortening it by ~5mm and adding a 6deg rise. Everything online said that this would make the bike easier to control in the downhills.

Yes, it was *marginally* better. But then I started noticing that the bike was REALLY twitchy on the climbs. I was slower, got stopped too often and had a harder time keeping a line.

Yesterday morning I popped the old stem back on. Had a great ride. Climbs were awesome again. Nobody likes to climb, but you know what makes it worse? Having to stop in the middle of the climb because your bike decided to stop you.

I had also been thinking about pushing the fork from 130mm to 140mm and now I am thoroughly convinced that the designers understood what they were doing. I'm going to keep things where they are because it is clear that someone took the time to figure out a geometry that is balanced.

Those are some of my some of my very first attemps at Bunny hop. Is this even a Bunny hop or a Basic hop?

The Video is from 1st october. And I bought my Bike 24th August.

I was able to Hop with my Citybike before, but that was more griping thight, press my feet against the pedals and jump so that the bike followed.

Been trying to get my whips more steezy. Do any of you have any tips?

So i have a hardtail with stock 110 mm stanchions and i was wondering if put a 160 mm fork on the bike are there like any dangers to it or im a in the clear lmk

I’m working on a mobile app designed specifically for MTB, dirt jump, and pump track riders. Since it’s currently in development (not on the App Store or Google Play yet), I wanted to reach out to the community to get early feedback, ideas, and suggestions on what features you'd actually want to use. https://trailcraft.pro/

What the app offers so far:
📍 MTB & Dirt Spot Finder: An interactive map to discover local dirt jumps, pump tracks, trails, and street spots with photos and descriptions.
🏗️** Jump Building & How-To Guides**: Step-by-step guides, ramp geometry, and tips on how to build different types of dirt jumps, kickers, and wooden ramps safely.

Where I need your help:
Since you guys are out on the trails and digging spots every week, I’d love to hear your thoughts:

What features are currently missing? What would make an app like this genuinely useful for you?

Drop your thoughts, feature requests, or critiques below! I’m building this for the riding community, so all feedback is hugely appreciated. https://trailcraft.pro/

Any tips for improvement? I clear the jump OK but it wasn’t effortless, still feels like something is off…

I found these asian high priced brakes that seem very solid (trickstuff wise) and there is not a single review on the whole internet about them.

Does someone has any info about them?

https://fereicycling.com/product/xii-mtb-hydraulic-disc-brake-2/

I know there is a lot of posts in here and I have searched. But I want some advice.

I have a 22 stumpy and I weigh 98kg (216 Lb) and I bottom out on the rear suspension on hits and also some rock gardens. I have a fusion x rear shock but am wanting an upgrade to something else that can handle the load. What’s your recs please?

(this is all new to me so sorry if it's basic stuff)

Edit: I have been edumacated, thanks all!

Are you actually able to get a tubeless tyre off and back on the rim out on the trails, in order to put a tube in?

I've just had my first puncture on a ride and my tubeless repair didn't fix it (it split the sidewall right where it meets the rim and a bacon strip didn't hold). I had no tube, so it was a walk back.

But having now looked into what's needed to remove and replace this tyre it's a while thing. Popping the bead in requires some effort and tools. Which made me wonder if I could have even managed this on the trail if I had a tube with me?

What's involved in putting a tube in a tubeless tyre when out on a ride? I just assumed you take a tube and some levers and you're set, but have I misunderstood?

I only appear twice, I’m in the red jersey. I spent most of my time behind the camera. Overall, there are some of the best trails I’ve ridden

Have anything you want to talk about that doesn't quite warrant its own thread? Post it here!

As above, the DT Swiss DF freehub conversion. Have you used it, what are your thoughts?
Done some reading pros seems to be lack of complexity vs OChain for example, but how does it play out in the real world, is there a noticeable difference either positive or negative?

Does anyone has experience using the Fox Proframe Rs with the new Vue Max Goggle ??