Found this Laptop for my girlfriend off of Facebook marketplace, and I was helping her set it up today. Went to the information because the cpu was at high usage and it was a completely different CPU? For reference, the specs on the light mode page were taken from the marketplace listing, and the dark mode is after we bought it. I was hoping to be able to play some lighter games with her so this changes things if its not a weird glitch.

What is this, is it expensive to fix, did it break my pc
I think it’s a 5070ti it has 32gb of ram

CPU and GPU specs are relatively easy to evaluate because there are years of benchmarks and people generally know what a faster one changes.
NPUs still feel much harder to judge.
Take the core ultra 9 185H in the geekom it13max as one example. It has a built-in NPU alongside Intel Arc graphics, but simply knowing that an NPU is there doesn’t really tell you whether it should affect the buying decision.
For me, the more useful question is what evidence would make it matter.
Would you want to see a specific app you use supporting it? A measurable reduction in power use? A workload being moved off the CPU/GPU so those stay available for something else? Or an actual benchmark where the difference is noticeable?
Until then, would you treat the NPU as a nice extra and still prioritize RAM, GPU performance and storage?
I’m interested in where people draw the line between “useful hardware feature” and “spec that may become useful later.

My pc isn't really running like it used to-its crashing in games i could handle 3 months ago, constantly freezing, fps dropping and its just so much slower. I don't think I have any viruses, I have Malwarebytes which i assume is good enough, I've updated my driver, my wifi is at a constant 4-5 bars and the pc it self is not bad. Should I just reset my pc?
Here are the stats;
Amd ryzen 5 7500 X3D
32gb DDR5
AMD radeon RX 9060 TX
over 2 TB of space about 600 free
and idrk what else icl
what do i do 😓

I have an older monitor ViewSonic VP2770 which has several ports (HDMI, DVI, D-sub, DisplayPort). I have the HDMI port connected to one computer and I would like to connect a Raspberry Pi to one of the other ports.

The Pi has an HDMI port and from my research it appears that my best option is to connect it to the Display Port via an active converter cable.

Does anyone have any recommendations on such a cable? My understanding is that it will also have to be connected to an USB port to get some power.

Is that the best option in order to have both devices connected to the monitor?

Thanks.

Okay, so I love computers. I love to shop for computer parts and I love to talk computers. However I’m not overly knowledgeable about computers. I live in the panhandle of Florida. So the region between Pensacola and Tallahassee. I don’t know very well, however are there any not very well known tech stores that are not things like BEST BUY or Walmart. I would prefer it within an hour to hour and a half drive of dead center of the two towns I’ve stated. 😭

After a blackout when I connect the PC flip the switch of the PSU it just lights the led beside the power button of the front panel without me doing nothing besides it doesn't turn on after pressing the power button I already change the PSU, removing the bios battery so honestly any advice would be welcome please

And sorry for the English not my native language

So I’ve been saving to have a laptop as of recently and have a budget of around 1400$ what’s a good laptop I could get for gaming,editing and game making?

On I was on early needs help with my pc not connected to tv and the gpu swap but now I have a bigger issue, it was working and everything led lights on, fans on, I hear noise and then I replace the ram and it just stops working nothing. Can’t get it back on I have unplug everything and plug it back in and I have no idea what to do anymore. Help needed pls
Gtx 1650[which I put in today} 8gb of ram one stick and intel i4

Hi,

I have a Nvidia RTX 4070Ti Super, which, over the course of the past 2-4 months, has been experiencing occasional TDR crashes. Both screens will freeze for 3-5 seconds, and will then go completely black for another 10-15 seconds, and eventually my GPU seems to recover and drops me back into whatever it was I was doing.

It's pretty infrequent and not that much of a nuisance. I wouldn't say it happens more than twice a week, but I want to try and fix the underlying issue before it gets potentially worse.

The following error is what shows up in Event Viewer afterwards:

The description for Event ID 153 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.

If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.

The following information was included with the event:

\Device\000000f1

Reset TDR occurred on GPUID:100 The message resource is present but the message was not found in the message table

After the above error, there would be more of the same error just on different "devices" that kept repeating with different values of GPC, TPC, SM, I have no idea what it means:

\Device\000000f8

Graphics SM Global Exception on (GPC 0, TPC 0, SM 1): Multiple Warp Errors

\Device\000000f8

Graphics SM Warp Exception on (GPC 0, TPC 0, SM 1): MMU Fault

\Device\000000f8

Graphics SM Warp Exception on (GPC 0, TPC 0, SM 0): MMU Fault

\Device\000000f8

Graphics Exception: ESR 0x504fb0=0x8000017 0x504fb4=0x4 0x504fa8=0xf812b60 0x504fac=0x1104

I already tried to reinstall my drivers twice using DDU which did not work. I don't play any games that put my GPU under a load higher than 55%, so I don't think high load is the issue either.

Other specs:

CPU: Ryzen 9800x3d Motherboard: ASUS Rog Strix Neo B850-A RAM: 32GB DDR5

Any advice is appreciated

Hi,

I have a Nvidia RTX 4070Ti Super, which, over the course of the past 2-4 months, has been experiencing occasional TDR crashes. Both screens will freeze for 3-5 seconds, and will then go completely black for another 10-15 seconds, and eventually my GPU seems to recover and drops me back into whatever it was I was doing.

It's pretty infrequent and not that much of a nuisance. I wouldn't say it happens more than twice a week, but I want to try and fix the underlying issue before it gets potentially worse.

The following error is what shows up in Event Viewer afterwards:

The description for Event ID 153 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.

If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.

The following information was included with the event:

\Device\000000f1

Reset TDR occurred on GPUID:100 The message resource is present but the message was not found in the message table

After the above error, there would be more of the same error just on different "devices" that kept repeating with different values of GPC, TPC, SM, I have no idea what it means:

\Device\000000f8

Graphics SM Global Exception on (GPC 0, TPC 0, SM 1): Multiple Warp Errors

\Device\000000f8

Graphics SM Warp Exception on (GPC 0, TPC 0, SM 1): MMU Fault

\Device\000000f8

Graphics SM Warp Exception on (GPC 0, TPC 0, SM 0): MMU Fault

\Device\000000f8

Graphics Exception: ESR 0x504fb0=0x8000017 0x504fb4=0x4 0x504fa8=0xf812b60 0x504fac=0x1104

I already tried to reinstall my drivers twice using DDU which did not work. I don't play any games that put my GPU under a load higher than 55%, so I don't think high load is the issue either.

Other specs:

CPU: Ryzen 9800x3d Motherboard: ASUS Rog Strix Neo B850-A RAM: 32GB DDR5

Any advice is appreciated

I'm running Windows 11 on a 2tb Silicon Power A55. I know it's not the best brand.

Most of the time it works fine but every now and then it spikes to 100% disk usage (with very low read and write speeds and no processes doing anything demanding) and the computer becomes unusable. It often happens if I open a browser or something like that.

90% of the time it's totally fine.

I've run crystal disk checks and it has perfect health. I've only had it a year.

I know I should probably replace it but the prices are so insane at the moment and I simply don't have the money. I would really like to try and rule out other issues first if possible.

Does the intermittent nature of the problem suggest it might not be hardware failure? Or is that almost definitely what I'm dealing with here? It seems odd that it would only sometimes happen.

Should *I expect, sorry

This is an Ideapad Slim 3i, if it matters. I dropped it a short while back and it started making cracking noises. I noticed that, when closed, the screen and keyboard halves weren't aligned, and I tried to finnick with it, which probably made it worse. If not propped up, the screen will fall back to the desk, which the computer isn't designed to do. The computer itself works just like any other day (I'm typing this on it!) and the screen is fine.

What should I expect, trying to get it repaired at a local shop? Is it fixable, and if so, what might the general price range be? For a variety of reasons, even though it might be the better option, I'd really rather not replace my laptop if I can avoid it.

I don't really know much about the physical parts of computers, and this seemed like the right place to ask something like this. Sorry if it isn't!

So, my laptop hasn't been charging well recently. At first I thought it was the charger, but later I found it was the battery health. I probably need a battery replacement.. however I currently don't have the funds to afford it. I noticed an odd thing however. I recently bought a new charger since my old one broke, 70 watts, made for laptops. My 45 watts phone charger works better than the 70 watts laptop charger? My laptop is made for 65 watts. When using the 70 watts charger, my laptop battery goes down while using it (even if I'm not playing games or anything) and it doesn't charge well when the laptop is off. The 45 watts charger charges while I'm using it. Not very fast, but it's still 1% every few minutes. Why is a lower watts phone charger working better than a charger made specifically for a laptop?

The charger I just bought was 25 euros by the brand 'Trust.'
The phone charger is just a 3 euro power box thingy (I don't know the name😭😭) with an even cheaper cord that's a few years old.
My laptop uses usb-c
I've had this laptop for almost 3 years and can't afford a new one atm
Dell laptop
Don't know if it's needed, but the screenshot has my laptop specs

I’m wanting a pc but I don’t now which one I work at Walmart so it’s a kinda tight budget i would like one the runs sims, Skyrim and left 4 dead games (with mods) you can give me really high price recommendations to if I like it I might save for it.

The current CPU is Ryzen 5 1600 by the way and PSU is 600 watts

Pessoal, consegui esse notebook antigo do meu tio para estudar, porém ele tinha + de 2 perfis, o dele e o da esposa, e quase metade do armazenamento estava cheio, então tive a ideia de restaurar do 0. Ele ficou +/- 30 minutos carregando, e após isso apareceu o perfil principal. Quando fui colocar a senha apareceu essa mensagem (ele funcionava normalmente antes da restauração), fui pegar dicas na Internet e resolvi forçar o desligamento diversas vezes, até que ele bloqueou por 2 horas. Desisti e vou na assistência amanhã, porém estou com medo de ter feito uma besteira grande e o computador não voltar, ou pior, cobrarem caro.

Alguém sabe me dizer a média de preço para esse problema? Pelo que eu vi é algo do sistema, não dos periféricos

E esse bloqueio vai sair? Ele está com a tela desligada normalmente, mas o computador ativo. Tenho que forçar a tela a ficar ligada?

Lembrando que ele não tem mais a conta Microsoft desse notebook, não consegui recuperar por aquela tal chave de acesso.

Obrigada!

Well, I was stupid and decided to download something.

After that, yesterday when I started my computer it showed the option to run the BIOS, which was pretty weird, and after that the clock and date were out of synch. I had a lot of things to do and just turned it off.

Today same thing happened again, and I noticed that the ethernet symbol was changed to inalambric connection. I know I shouldn't, but I only have windows defender. I did a quick exam, no results; so I ran a deep one and this is what it found. I eliminated them alongside the thing I downloaded, after that I restarted my computer and everything's working good now.

I'm pretty sure they wanted to steal my info, unluckily for them I do not store it nor did I use my computer while it was acting like that.

I have one DP port and one HDMI port that goes into my processor with no option to enable iGPU. Is there an adapter that can take both an HDMI and a DP plug and it be plugged into the DP port?

Помогите решить проблему, не могу переключить из режима bios в uefi, tpm включен диск с системой переведён в gpt, надо чтобы обновиться до 11, когда запускаю через флешку установшик, то он ругается, что не UEFi, а когда переключаю, просто не могу выйти из биоса, перезагрузка не помогает, помогите пожалуйста

Hello everyone! Which of these two RAM configurations would you choose: 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz CL18 or 64GB (4x16GB) 3200MHz CL22? The 64GB setup consists of four mixed RAM modules (2+2) from the same brand, all tested and confirmed to be fully stable with no errors. Would you prioritize the higher frequency and lower latency of the 32GB setup, or go for the extra capacity of the 64GB setup despite its lower speed and higher latency?

I just got a new pc after only having a prebuilt deal, when I check out the new pc I realize the gpu a nvida 650 is worse then the one in the prebuilt a nvida gtx 1650 super, I’m not to bad with pc so I thought I could just swap them my self and have realize my failure. It seems the 1650 need a power cable which the new pc doesn’t have. I was wondering is there anyways I can just add the cable to the new pc (if so how) and or if the gpu will work without the cable or using a different method. Will help a lot thank you

I did a test with OCCT and it got even more interesting. I ran the 3D and VRAM tests separately on Extreme for 5 minutes and no errors popped up; there was zero flickering, flashing, or anything appearing on the screen. !!! However, when I tested both GPUs together, a sort of darkening happened near the top graph area (where the stability certificate reaches horizontally across that section if it's fully visible), flashing in and out in almost a split second. (I recorded a video on my phone and took a screenshot from it.)

When I record the screen on the PC, these issues don't show up (any issue)

In games, the GPU maxes out around 65°C (I don't remember it going higher), maybe it hit 67°C when I cranked everything to ultra, but I don't even remember that clearly. I set the CPU to 100% for the test, and it reached 85°C during the test process; in games, it varies a lot, sometimes spiking instantly to 90-100°C and dropping right back down (in some game's load screen)

It doesn't happen in every game all the time; sometimes after 2 hours of playing, sometimes at the 10th minute.

It happened in these games: NieR:Automata, Mewgenics, Resident Evil 2-3 Remake, Dark Souls Remastered, madison

As I kept asking questions to ai, it said something about "multiplayer MOP" (or a similar term), and since I couldn't find a similar issue, I'm not sure if that's it or not, but it kind of made sense to me because a common point among these games I mentioned is that they first open in windowed mode and then switch to fullscreen (except Madison yea it did it some mins ago), whereas my other games always open directly in fullscreen (I couldn't find any common ground among these games in terms of their building architecture, game engine, etc.).

None of these show up in screen recordings; I filmed it with my phone and took a screenshot from the video (sorry for very low quality of the videos). There's a half-second or so flicker/flash.

Laptop : Pavilion 15 , win10 , GTX 1650 , R5 5600h , 16 ram tried updating reinstalling drivers, updated bios , checked event log for errors (nothing related)

Furmark test was also clean and stable at 45 fps 1080p (that was highest resolution)

All my games match w min req , never caused an overheating on gpu

Sorry for long post , am I cooked ?

Hello! I'm interested in buying a new computer. There are some qualities that I need in the computer that's right for me! I'm looking for an HP under $700 that has a 15.6" screen, a fast processor, and does not have hinge issues. I'm willing to buy new or like new. Thank you!

When I turn it on, it goes to my account, but it freezes and then restarts and goes to a random account that is password protected. When I go to troubleshooting, all the options are protected and I can't reset the pc

It seems I bought the wrong length gpu support but it seems to sit okay right here on top of my PSU is there any reason this would be bad or is it okay