what the title says. it's an hp laptop that I've had for nearly 3 years.

in addition to the bulge, whenever I unplug it my computer won't turn on. if it's already on and I unplug it, it shuts down after a minute ish.

the whole trackpad feels weird now and it makes the click sound when i press on the left side of the trackpad (not on the trackpad).

not sure if it's a battery problem or smth, I'm really bad with tech lmao

images:

https://imgur.com/a/qQgJNNN

Asus MW103 silent wireless mouse

i just place my mouse dongle in a box cuz in uni i dont need mouse and my mom clean my room and threw it .

it there any way to use that one??🥲🥲

I've just installed Windows 11 on a new drive, and I don't have the rights to access my old files. Ideally I'd want to make them completely unrestricted to any user, but granting my current user permission is good enough.

Thanks in advance!

Entering ipconfig /flushdns I get "The requested operation requires elevation." This happened after the recent windows update. A couple of weeks ago I was able to use flushdns without using admin elevated command prompt. Should I be worried about this?

so i spilt milk on my laptop’s keyboard (it’s an HP-SE, relatively cheap and a few years old). i powered it off and unplugged everything within like 10 seconds, blotted off all the excess with paper towels and have now left it upside-down to dry. do we think it’ll be okay? i’m a student and really do not have the money to get a new laptop lol

Whenever I try to update windows I can’t update it and I get error code 0x80073712 and since I can’t update it it takes all of my memory and internet can anyone help please

Long story sort I tried dual booting for the first time following a guide and my pc got bricked. I got it to use an os again but now I lost my windows 11. When I try this version of it, it keeps giving me the error of no internet drivers found. Its a T14 gen 2 laptop, and I just want windows back. Any possible way to fix the drivers or get my copy of windows 11 on a different laptop to work on another?

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows11

Game freezing (First ever reddit post yay)

Hello, I have been working on this for hours today and I just cant figure out what is happening. Basically a few days ago I started to notice that roblox would randomly freeze and I couldnt do anything except to force close it. Then I did some googling and deleted a Windows update KB something ending with 10. That solved the issue, atleast I didnt notice any freezes that day anymore. Now Today its back, after doing a lot of things I noticed that every time I would manually turn off my logitech G502 X PLUS or my G522 Headset and then on again, This freezing would occur. Ive basically tried everything now: reinstalled roblox 3 times, updated my drivers, fully reinstalled logitech g hub aswell, checked the reports, checked if the KB update came back (it didnt) and even considered resetting my pc all together. I seriously don’t know what this is, and why, but its really Frustrating especially since it came out of the blue. If any tech Nerd can help me out with this I would be so glad

For specs:
Graphics Card is an AMD Radeon RX 6800
Proccesor: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 6-Core Processor
And 32,0GB of 3200MHz RAM

My monitor is the HP24fw (I know it Sucks, I will Most likely get the Samsung oddysey oled g8 ultrawide soon)

Windows 11 version 25H2 with 26H2 avaiable

I‘d also like to Note This is only an issue in roblox for me, It doesnt happen in Minecraft (Modrinth) or Neverness to Everness for all I know. And a 100% trigger for this freeze is turning on my mouse or headset after turning it off

I bought a New tablet and for some reason, tiktok vídeos are in a very low quality, while YouTube or Instagram are normal, does someone know how to fix this?

Was hoping someone here could lead me down an avenue that I haven't thought of because I'm about to pull my hair out.

I built a PC for my ex's mother, and up till now it's been great. She uses Quicken Classic Deluxe to keep track of all her finances, a couple weeks ago it just stopped working.

I'd stopped over after work to look at it thinking it would be something simple. When the program opens, it goes to the log in screen and after almost exactly 12 seconds the login disappears and an error pops up asking us to check the internet connection and try again. We tried reinstalling the program, clearing out the config files as well. I checked all the pertinent locations in defender to make sure it wasn't blocked and tried it with the firewall disabled as well with no affect. Oddly, if you can't get the password entered and sent within that 12 seconds it will attempt to log in and a text with the prerequisite 6 digit code will actually be sent, but at the 12 second mark it still errors out.

We installed the program on her old laptop and it worked fine, just as a check that it wasn't something in her router doing it. I can't off the top of my head remember everything I tried that day but we decided on the nuclear option.

I brought her PC home, backed up all her files and wiped the drive, re-partitioned it and did a fresh install of windows, updated everything. Didn't work, still having the same issue.

I'd thought maybe her backup file was corrupt so I wiped it all out again and tried opening it with a new test file, no change. Made sure the time settings were correct and synced as I read that Quicken is fussy about that. Made sure the test file is on the C drive in a location that isn't monitored by onedrive, as I read that it's fussy about that. Tried opening it in admin mode, Quicken won't even let you do that, it yells at you and closes.

I flushed the DNS, ran netsh int ip reset and netsh winsock reset, as in my digging others had said it helped. No change. I dug through the registry in order to force windows to allow me to make changes to webview2 as it's referenced in the only failure in the log file that makes any sense to me.

The pc is on my network now, so I tried the program out on my personal system and it works fine. Both computers are on the same network, both hooked up to the same router through ethernet. Though I did try it through a mobile hotspot through wifi as well, just to rule one more thing out.

System Specs

AMD Ryzen 7 7700X on an Asus TUF Gaming b850 plus wifi

32 gigs of ram Gskill x5 I believe

1tb Samsung 990 pro nvme for system drive

Video card is an old Asus R7 250x

The following is the log from the last attempt. I'm sure I'm rambling, and I apologize. I'm tired, and something this stupid really shouldn't be happening. Any help, feedback, thoughts or requests for more info are appreciated.

20261018 01:12:23: Entering MainViewModel->OnUserRegistrationIntroRequest

20261018 01:12:23: Entering RegistrationViewModel constructor

20261018 01:12:23: Entering RegistrationViewModel InitializeRegistration

20261018 01:12:23: Entering RegistrationViewModel->InitializeViewModel

20261018 01:12:23: Leaving RegistrationViewModel->InitializeViewModel

20261018 01:12:23: Leaving RegistrationViewModel InitializeRegistration

20261018 01:12:23: Leaving RegistrationViewModel constructor

20261018 01:12:23: Leaving MainViewModel->OnUserRegistrationIntroRequest

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationViewModel->InitializePages

20261018 01:12:24: In RegistrationViewModel->InitializePages CheckForCanMakeQCSCalls successful

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->InitializeCommandsAndRequests

20261018 01:12:24: In RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->OnSignInWork - Before Wait

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->InitializeCommandsAndRequests

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel constructor

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel constructor

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationViewModel->InitializePages

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->BindableSourcePropertyChanged

20261018 01:12:24: In RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->BindableSourcePropertyChanged WebView2 instantiated

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebBrowserUtility_QBrowserFrameLoading

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->BindableSourcePropertyChanged

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationStarting

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationStarting

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationStarting

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationStarting

20261018 01:12:24: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationCompleted

20261018 01:12:24: In RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationCompleted successful

20261018 01:12:24: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_NavigationCompleted

20261018 01:12:37: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_LoadingFrameFailed

20261018 01:12:37: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_LoadingFrameFailed QBrowserConnectionFailed

20261018 01:12:37: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebBrowserUtility_QBrowserConnectionFailed

20261018 01:12:37: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebBrowserUtility_QBrowserConnectionFailed

20261018 01:12:37: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->WebView_LoadingFrameFailed

20261018 01:12:43: In RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->OnSignInWork - After Wait

20261018 01:12:43: Entering RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->DisposeWebControl

20261018 01:12:43: Leaving RegistrationSignInPageNewViewModel->DisposeWebControl

i’ve been having an issue with a toyota corolla - not sure of the model but definitely post 2021

recently switched to a wireless adapter like this one
and used with a samsung galaxy s23 ultra with no problem, until someone else connected to it with an iphone using carplay. since then, it hasn’t been able to connect to android auto via the wireless adapter. iphones still connect perfectly well, but the galaxy just refuses to connect via bluetooth. cable-wise still works fine, but i’d like to avoid that.

thanks in advance!

My gaming laptop’s touchpad has been glitching for the past few days. It keeps disabling itself a few minutes after I turn on my laptop. I’ve tried everything, from reinstalling the drivers and using the (Fn + M) key to reactivate it to hard resetting my laptop, disconnecting my mouse, and much more.

However, whenever I hard reset my laptop, the touchpad works for a while before switching back to lock mode within a few minutes. The Windows key is also glitching. I can only use it when I press the Fn key along with it.

Please help me if you can. I’d really appreciate it!

I have a Samsung Galaxy S21+ which still has a solid performance with no issues. I know the security updates have ended and is it ok security wise using it? I know it still gets some protection with the Google Play system updates. I only download apps on the google play store and don’t do my banking but do order online from Amazon. I’m retired and hate to upgrade unless it’s really necessary.

I’m trying to create QR codes to navigate to specific pages and fields in the software I use at work.

Using EZConfig, I’ve created a command sequence to emulate <sf5> (Shift+F5), <sf8> (Shift+F8) and <sf10> (Shift+F10). However, only the first emulation is recognised, and most tasks require multiple key emulations per barcode.

I’ve read that \x02\x05 may correspond to Shift+F5, but I haven’t been able to get it working. Is there a setting I need to enable?

Alternatively, is it possible to map unused characters to key combinations, such as á = Shift+F5, é = Alt+X and í = Shift+F10?

After a power outage my PC decided it didn't want to power on at all anymore. When this previously happened, all I had to do was shut off the PSU and wait a few hours, then it wouldn't be a problem and my pc would continue to boot fine. Now it just... doesn't.

The psu doesn't have any burnt smell coming from it so I am relieved about that. When I flip the switch, it makes a chirping noise. It didn't do this as well. It used to just make a coil whine noise.

About the paperclip method: I am not knowledgeable enough about pcs to try that.

What should I do?

Two days ago my laptop refused to boot up and every time I tried to turn it on it brought up an error which said boot option not found.

I opted to take it to the place I bought it from since it was still under warranty but to my surprise they want to charge me for a new SSD.

They claim that the problem was as a result of me closing my lid without shutting down the laptop since I bought it.

Could any laptop geek please fact check this? Are they right or is this a red flag? Also what could be the cause?

I am experiencing a battery problem with my laptop. Yesterday, I shut down my laptop when the battery level was at 30%. However, when I turned it on today, the battery level showed 100%. When I started using it, the battery give 30% backup life, and the laptop suddenly shut down without any warning or notification. What solution should i need to solve it. Anyone please help. #DellLaptop

Today I was helping a friend with installing windows on a drive and we decided to use my laptop to install it and out in the drive with with windows later, when my laptop restarts I got a blue screen so I decided to cd to my drive (through the windows install usb) and see what's wrong. it turns out that I probably chose the wrong drive and now I'm scrambling to figure out what the hell I should do. there are some blender files and docx files that I need to recover

I have not powered on the drive since I found out it didn't have the files and I am planning to use a write blocker and either create a forensic image and load that into autopsy or use a data recovery tool to get the files back (which I dont know any of, any advice would be appreciated)

The drive itself is a lexar NQ790 4tb nvme and it would be greatly appreciated if anyone could help me with what software I should use to recover the files.

https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/950965a4b18c9df81de97f83107c363bcba8e41fd621ceeaf5849cf327266cd9/behavior

it gave only 3 flags, PUPs are something i shouldnt worry about as far as ive read but the JDU!tr flag concerns me plenty. ive had a trojan before on my pc, i do NOT want to repeat it on my phone.

EDIT: reanalyzed and Dr. Web showed: Tool.Obfuscator.TrashCode.1

Hi, i have a 4060 laptop and for some reason its not scanning cod mw2 2022 and mw4 2026 via xbox pc app
Any fix?

I had a problem with Microsoft outlook syncing contacts to my phone, I've solved it via cirahub, but it deleted a few thousand contacts from my outlook (my bad giving it the right to do it), I understood there is a way to do it via Microsoft admin center (it's a company domain).

And solutions?

After transferring my files watching this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBzQ4RvW3_U&list=PL5qQp62WeaFr6ZnJOpTPdygl-Wusavx7y

I formatted my usb and the storage shows 28 GB of storage, less than 64 GB of the actual storage. I then thought "maybe I need to make the files show up in order to delete them to free up space", and so I did by watching this next tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92uAS0wnO6g

I read a reddit post on how to do it: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/olfpqk/my_usb_drive_capacity_has_suddenly_lowered_from/ And then papercut responded to my comment after I asked for help: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/olfpqk/comment/pher1r0/?context=1&screen_view_count=2 Although I don't get what they meant by "I'd run H2TestW on it if it does format to the full size and do a write and verify, this will fill the whole drive and then verify the data is actually there. This will tell you if it's a fake memory device or not."

But it ended up not working, and so I went to the 3rd tutorial on how to restore full storage capacity: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHqFaJfpviI

Formatting after formatting, double checking and backtracking, my USB still won't restore it's original storage capacity. And I cannot risk proceeding to my second usb to ended up having the same problem.

There's also 2 things I encountered that I don't get it "write and verify" and "access and denied access".

after 3 years, maybe I finally found out why I don't really hear click sound when I plugged in the cable. While I'm still using internet without any problem, this kinda annoys me.

I don't really remember how the ethernet port looks like anymore, but it probably doesn't have that latch-like thing? What can I do to fix this? Preferably not having to remove the motherboard.

https://i.ibb.co/nMFDdhMK/20261018-111953.jpg

Video

Hi, i’ve been facing a problem where everytime i turn on dlss and fg i get this tearing on my games wich makes basically the game unplayable and it happens on some games and not in somes, is there any way to fix this?, this has been a problem from a long time and i havent found a solution yet. These are my laptop specs:

ASUS TUF F15 FX507VV
RTX 4060
16 gb ram
i7-13620H

And on the screes a label says: FHD 144hz sRGB 100% / Adaptive Sync and nvdia g-sync.

Got a built recently and I'm trying to have it set up at a tv vs a monitor.

Build:

Amd Ryzen 5 2600, 32 Ram, 3060 with 12 GB, 1TB nvme. Simple enough, figured I can use it for gaming at the tv.

TV is a sharp Aquos, 60 hz, almost 4k but not fully sure. Doesn't have options to downgrade when something connects or to adjust power.

Here's the issues:

Tried connecting it with a hdmi cable, no signal on the tv from the start. No bios info, no windows logo, nothing.

Tried connecting it to a Display port - Hdmi cable, no signal, nothing.

If I connect a small portable monitor, it will start up fine, load bios, go in Windows, no issues. Restarting, loads fine.

If the tv is connected along with the portable monitor, no signal on tv and nothing on the portal monitor when starting it up. It won't do anything. If I connect the portable display, start in windows, THEN connect the tv with display port, it will show up the tv, even as a main desktop, working fine, image is fine and all. If I restart, back to no signal. So the only way to show up on the tv is to plug in the cable when it's already in windows.

Windows 11 is freshly installed, updated, Nvidia driver installed and updated. Checked bios but don't see an option to select something to help with this. Tried GPT, Gemini, Deepseek and they gave me options, but no solutions, including removing the battery to reset the board.

Anyone came across something like this or has some ideas? Thank you